Stamford Advocate (Sunday)

A Victorian castle in the clouds

MOHONK MOUNTAIN HOUSE STICKS TO ITS VISION AS AN ESCAPE FROM THE MODERN WORLD

- By MaryEllen Fillo Visit mohonk.com. MaryEllen Fillo is a freelance writer.

What Mohonk Mountain House has, money can't buy.

Quiet, peace and quiet. And a soothing experience for the soul that seems to reset life for its pampered guest.

Located in New Paltz, N.Y., this National Historic Landmark resort, celebratin­g its 150th anniversar­y this year, combines indulgent creature comforts like lakeside, balconied rooms with working wood fireplaces to gourmet farmtotabl­e dining, all with a mountain and lakeside view.

“We sell calm, peace, quiet and the chance to just slow down,” explains Nina Smiley, widow of Bert Smiley, the fourth generation of twin Quaker resort founders, Alfred and Albert Smiley. “People need it now more than ever.”

More than 1,300 acres of breathtaki­ng grounds surround an eclectic blend of Victorian, Edwardian and Craftsman buildings that make up the historic resort.

“The ambience here is meant to be an invitation to go outdoors and take a breath,” says Smiley. “We see

people come in on a Friday when they are jazzed up from the work week or life in general and by the time they leave on Sunday, they are renewed with a new serenity.”

The resort isn't necessaril­y for “outdoors” types only. Inside, guests read or relax in one of the Victorian castlestyl­e main house's quiet bookfilled libraries, antiqueapp­ointed common rooms or welcoming wraparound porches. Historic artifacts and noteworthy art fills the rooms, while “Summer House” gazebos are perched all around the property.

Fine dining ranges from comfort food like roasted chicken, pork loin or fish to the more modern, including a taco station, noodle bowls or vegetarian choices. An authentic ice cream fountain offers egg creams or the newest creamery flavor, Mohonk Mountain Crunch. Afternoon tea and cookies is served in the Lake Lounge

But come on, nothing takes the place of some fresh mountain air, and Mohonk offers dozens of ways to enjoy. Hikes are offered all yearround, with special emphasis on birding and nature. Organized hiking runs through the Shawangunk Mountains that overlook Lake Mohonk. At one of the “Earth's Last Great Places,” as it was named by The Nature Conservanc­y, a stay also includes attention from resort naturalist Michael Ridolfo, who offers an “up close and personal” look at the land. There is horseback and carriage rides, mountain biking, fishing, canoeing and paddle in the resort's centerpiec­e, Lake Mohonk, as well as tours of the barns, greenhouse­s and tennis and golf areas. I winter, snowshoe and crosscount­ry skiing and ice skating as well as winterfrie­ndly hikes are organized in its great outdoors.

Mohonk's multimilli­on dollar, awardwinni­ng “green” spa sits right on top of the mountainto­p resort, offering a slew of wellness activities including meditation and fitness classes, a menu of massages and body treatments. An outdoor, yearround, heated rejuvenati­ng mineral pool puts you smack in the middle of the clouds.

Plan on recording your favorite shows while you are away. Mohonk has no television­s in its guest rooms.

“I'll admit, we were nuts when we found out there was no TV in the room, we never thought to ask,” said one guest, Arlene Brousseau, who was visiting from Long Island with her husband and their two children. “It forced us to get out and enjoy not only the place but each other, although the kids were thankful their cellphones worked.”

“We have a balance,” said Smiley, who with her late husband returned to the resort 30 years ago to take over managing the property. “We are for people who want an inspiratio­nal setting, a hotel where they don't need television and can breathe clean fresh air. A Victorian castle with a sense of place.”

Smiley is reflective about the next 150 years and whether the resort philosophy can sustain.

“Interestin­gly enough, the people who come back here don't seem to want us to change,” Smiley explained. “We realized that years ago when we started to think about whether we needed to become `more modern' abut some aspects of the resort. But it seems they want that sense of calm and serenity and that while the amenities, the food offerings and some of the programmin­g has been a quiet evolution, the essence of the place is what brings them here,” she said. “We absolutely will still be here 150 years from now.”

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 ?? Contribute­d photo / ?? Mohonk Mountain House is an eclectic "Victorian castle" in the sky.
Contribute­d photo / Mohonk Mountain House is an eclectic "Victorian castle" in the sky.

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