Stamford Advocate (Sunday)

Virus brings worry, waiting at NYC’s most famous eateries

- By Deepti Hajela

They’re some of New York City’s most iconic eateries, feeding New Yorkers and on visitors’ must-see lists for decades, some for more than a century.

They’ve been through a lot in those years — wars, financial crises, blackouts, a terrorist attack. But this pandemic, and the steps New York and other places are taking to fight it, like shutdowns and social distancing? It’s like nothing they’ve ever seen.

The state order for restaurant­s to halt dine-in service and allow for only delivery and takeout has been a huge challenge at Luger, a special-occasion kind of place with highend prices that dry-ages its own steaks and orders its supply well in advance.

That means right now, “We have a lot of dry-aged meat” to figure out what to do with, Berson said. “Literal tons.”

It has also meant severely cutting back on staff, down to a skeleton crew of about half a dozen from a normal contingent of about 40, he said. Everyone’s being paid for the time being.

It’s such a contrast from how he remembers the atmosphere after the Sept. 11 attacks, when the ask for people was to go out and support businesses.

Now “the best thing to do is the opposite, stay home,” he said.

The state’s order for restaurant­s to limit their operations so that people don’t gather in close proximity is a central part of efforts to limit the transmissi­on of coronaviru­s.

For most people, the coronaviru­s causes only mild or moderate symptoms, such as fever and cough. The vast majority of people recover. But for some it can cause more severe illness, including pneumonia, or death.

At Junior’s, another Brooklyn mainstay, famous for its cheesecake, the doors are closed.

Owner Alan Rosen, the latest generation of his family to own the 70-year institutio­n, figured the best way to survive the shutdown was to focus on its commercial bakery in New Jersey, which supplies still-open grocery stores, and to shutter the original location and three other outposts in Manhattan and Connecticu­t.

Staying open for delivery just wouldn’t have been sustainabl­e, Rosen said.

That meant laying off 650 of 850 employees, some of whom came to the Brooklyn spot on Thursday

to pick up their final paychecks.

It was emotional, Rosen said, but “our employees are the most resilient people. Their attitudes were amazing and uplifting to me.”

Mike Zoulis, owner of Tom’s Restaurant in the upper part of Manhattan, wasn’t so confident. The restaurant — its exterior known to many as the restaurant on “Seinfeld,” and also famous as the setting of Suzanne Vega’s hit song “Tom’s Diner” — has been run by his family since it opened in the 1940s.

It’s open for delivery and pickup, but “if it continues like this, what am I going to do,“he said.

Right now, it’s just him and his two partners in the restaurant, most of the staff of 25 to 30 people laid off.

“Tom’s has seen a number of disasters, and it survived and it survived and it survived,“he said. “Right now, is the first time where I actually think that we might close down.”

They’re still making soups and deli meats, including the famous pastrami, at Katz’s Delicatess­en on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, as they have been since it opened in 1888.

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