Stamford Advocate

Access to fresh local food is a human right

- Ali Ghiorse is founder of The Foodshed Network and the Chair of the Greenwich Sustainabi­lity Committee’s Food System Sector.

A few years ago, on a crisp autumn afternoon, I was driving home from backcountr­y Greenwich, after a visit to Versailles Farm. I was inspired by the bounty I sourced throughout the day. Fresh cut zinnias; colorful and bright, leaf lard for pie crust, handcrafte­d cheese delicately wrapped in parchment paper, and pasta, made from an ancient grain senatore cappelli, also handcrafte­d. I spent the morning at the Farmers Market, Holly Hill food scrap shed drop-off, and my garden plot at Armstrong Court where I grow culinary herbs. Grateful to the growers and artisans who filled my pantry with the tastes of the season, purchasing their goods did not feel like enough, and I wanted to do more.

As a former chef, I spent more than 20 years cooking. I learned early on that my culinary success was dependent upon sourcing ingredient­s directly from farmers and fisherfolk, especially those who cultivated heirloom varieties and breeds. I made it my mission to create menus that told a story rooted in ancestral history. The relationsh­ips with the producers of the food I cooked, inspired and underpinne­d my commitment to protecting regional water and foodsheds.

This might sound like privilege, and out of reach for most people. And in some ways it is. Yet, it shouldn't be. How and where we source our food is inextricab­ly linked to our health and cultural legacies. Access to fresh local food is a human right. Yet many communitie­s experience barriers due to affordabil­ity, inequitabl­e policies, and lack of access to land and regional infrastruc­tures. These barriers stem from the industrial food system, which is designed to increase profits not benefit the health of people or preserve our natural resources. The cost is a disconnect­ion to real nourishmen­t and where and how our food is grown. For example, supermarke­t chains do little to highlight farmers, or reflect regional seasonal food. Thanks to the hard work of many organizers, coalitions and thought leaders over the last decades, determined to create more equitable and sustainabl­e food systems, new foodshed landscapes are emerging, shifts are happening, awareness is expanding and momentum is building.

The Foodshed Network (TFN) was inspired by people in our community who uphold the integrity of food and agricultur­e. A free educationa­l resource, TFN website highlights the initiative­s, organizati­ons and businesses that are advancing a regional and regenerati­ve food system agenda. The website is meant to catalyze conversati­ons, providing a lexicon, and featuring leaders who center equity and justice as guiding principles for change. To make a living in food and farming using sustainabl­e and artisanal practices, takes tremendous sacrifice and hard work. As consumers in this movement, we must stay informed, educate ourselves about the larger context, and offer our support.

The Foodshed Network is a tool to help guide people who care about these issues and want to make better choices. We also facilitate two initiative­s. In partnershi­p with Greenwich Conservati­on Commission, we convene the Greenwich Food System Forum. Join our upcoming webinars for our next two events “Cultivatin­g Connecticu­t Grown by Land” and “Cultivatin­g Connecticu­t Grown by Sea” on May 4 and June 1. In partnershi­p with the Greenwich Sustainabi­lity Committee, we convene the Greenwich Food Alliance. Anyone who is interested in zinnias many food system changemake­rs in Greenwich that continue to make an impact toward change, including Fairfield Greenwich Cheese Company, IL Pastficio, Raphael's Bakery, Coffee For Good, Greenwich Community Gardens, Food Rescue US, Pollinator Pathway, Live Eat Cook Healthy, Greenwich Food Scrap Recycling Program, all the farmers markets and garden clubs throughout town. We need you to thrive.

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