Starkville Daily News

Pigs and Horses

- JAY REED

As 2017 is drawing to a close, I am thankful. Good things have happened this year. And some of those good things have been edible. But it’s not just the food (though that is surely important), it’s also the environmen­t - the destinatio­n, if you will. Several restaurant­s have been checked off the bucket list over the last couple of months - not in the sense of “one and done”, but at least I can say I’ve been.

The first was Sonny’s Smokehouse in Ackerman. I had eaten Sonny’s pulled pork before, a few years ago, but it was catered. I’m in no form or fashion against catered barbecue - in fact, I am an advocate and a participan­t. But I’d heard so much about it, I felt I really needed to go and see it for myself. So one Friday not long ago, a Foodie Friend called from Jackson and asked if I wanted to meet at Sonny’s for lunch. As it happened, I was free to move about the country that day, and took the chance to check this one off.

But first, some back story. About two years after I started writing this column, I had the opportunit­y to go to Meridian for a food event, and at that event I met The Photograph­er. Have you ever met someone for the first time in a random place, never expecting to see them again, but instead they keep popping up in your life? That’s what happened with The Photograph­er. And over the course of our semi-regular random popup meetings, I discovered that if there had been a Sonny’s Smokehouse Fan Club, he would most certainly be the president. Anytime our paths crossed, shortly after hello’s, the next question would be, “Have you been to Sonny’s yet?” Finally, I can say, “Yes!”

On this day I ordered the ribs. The Photograph­er is a big fan of the ribs. Rib Fan Club President. I am now also a member of the club. The ribs were a good mix of crusty and tender. Not quite fall-off-the-bone, but that’s okay - trained barbecue judges prefer a tender rib that still has some bite to it. The sauce wasn’t overly sweet, and had a little chunkiness.

Foodie Friend got the same thing, so there was no need to share. Husband of Foodie Friend, on the other hand, got the prime rib sandwich. The nice thing about friends in food-dom is not just that they will often give you a bit of their meal, they actually want you to try it and share the experience. So I didn’t really have to ask for a bite of the ribeye sandwich - he offered. And wow - it was incredible. I’ve had steak sandwiches before that had good flavor, but tended to be a bit too chewy. Not this one. Tender, thin-cut ribeye, stacked on a white bun. I was very impressed, to the point that when I go back, I will make sure someone in my party orders this sandwich, and I will make sure I get another bite. At least. The Photograph­er calls it the sandwich of which dreams are made. You should try it. With a side of ribs.

On to Jackson. There are so many places I have not eaten in Jackson. So very many places. The bucket list is long for the capital city, yet for no particular reason I rarely make it down. But that is about to change. Son is going to be working there next semester, and I intend to take every opportunit­y possible to cross off more places on the list. This week I was there with Daughter, and decided to get a head start.

One of the places that made the list is the Iron Horse Grill. Though the name certainly does not give it away, many of the dishes are reminiscen­t of Mexican food, with a Southern flair. Daughter likes Mexican food, so I thought it was a safe bet. It was: she ordered a loaded baked potato. Cheese, bacon, sour cream. Not Mexican at all. Her adventurou­s culinary streak is expanding, but we have work to do yet. I went with the standby: grilled redfish tacos. These came with mango salsa - can’t go wrong with grilled fish and mango salsa. The rice and beans on the side were pretty good, too, especially with a drizzle of queso left over from the appetizer.

So let’s talk about the appetizer for a moment. It was the standard-bearer for this meal, and not just because of the huge portions or the fact that it was half price during happy hour. (We ate early.) The descriptio­n was simple: Fried Broccoli, hand battered, queso. I’ve had fried vegetables before. Mushrooms are very popular, and I’ve had broccoli and squash as well. I am not above claiming such a dish as “healthy” because, heck: at the core there is broccoli, with all its vitamins and minerals and fiber. But I still can’t escape the fact that there is usually a thick layer of batter on these particular fried foods. (Unless you’re eating tempura - that’s a different ballgame.) In fact the batter is usually so thick it’s difficult to identify what’s inside. Fried ball of goodness, you say? Healthy, you say? Sure, I’ll eat it. (Munch, munch…). Hey, there’s broccoli in there! Who knew?

Not so at Iron Horse Grill. The batter covered the floret, and was crunchy, but the texture and thickness of it made broccoli identifica­tion a certainty. And there was queso for dipping. Even Daughter ate a few bites. That’s truly something.

Stay tuned for more bits and bites from Jackson. The Capital has much to offer those who love to eat, and I pledge to make the upcoming year count.

 ??  ?? EATS ONE ATE
EATS ONE ATE

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