Street Trucks

1956 F-100 Gets Modern EFI

EDELBROCK’S PRO FLO 4 TO THE RESCUE!

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Edelbrock’s Pro Flo 4 to the Rescue!

THIS ’56 F-100 WAS PUT TOGETHER AS A HOTROD TRUCK BACK IN THE EARLY ’90S. It has a 302 out of a late ’80s F-100 and a C-4 trans. We ran the existing motor on the dyno and then did a cam, head, and manifold swap to see if we could get some decent power over a weekend without breaking the bank. The upgrades were successful, with a 35% increase in horsepower and 25% in torque.

With our previous A/C installati­on, an AOD trans and rear end gear swap, and the newfound power, the old F-100 was now really fun to drive and even started seeing some 65-mile daily commute duty. That got us to thinking about possible mileage increases.

The switch from the old C-4 three-speed automatic and 2.75 rear gear to the AOD four-speed auto and 3.89 gears had not only helped wake up the performanc­e a bit, but it also increased mileage from 9.8 mpg to 12.5 with the

overdrive. We kind of figured that the new power parts in the motor would probably roll some of that mileage increase back, but when driven in commuting mode, it has stayed the same, but obviously it’s a little more efficient now. Driving it hard, it still manages to average about 11.5 mpg. We figured there had to be more. Now, of course the ’56 F-100 is about as aerodynami­c as a barn door, especially with the upright windshield and the way the roof hangs over the windshield, so we aren’t expecting to bring it up to the 21.6 mpg average my 2017 F-150 Super Crew gets, but we guessed that we could seek out a bit more and maybe make it a bit more fun to drive. Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) with timing control seemed to be the answer.

After looking at the myriad of systems that are available for the small block Henry, from high-end individual runner systems to simple throttle body carb replacemen­ts, the New Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 sequential port injection caught our attention. A call to our good buddy Smitty at Edelbrock educated us on the upgrades of the newest “4” version. The Pro Flo 4 has a new processor (ECU) that is faster and allows for quicker self-learning as it continuall­y adjusts the air-fuel ratio and ignition timing for maximum performanc­e and fuel mileage. Hmm, seemed like just what we were looking for. This system differs from a throttle body injection, or TBI, where the injectors are in the throttle body, which makes them act like a sophistica­ted carburetor, but still relies on manifold flow patterns to deliver the A/F mixture which can vary from cylinder to cylinder. The Pro Flo 4 is a sequential port injection system. What that means is the fuel injectors are located in the intake manifold, right above the cylinder heads, aiming the fuel flow at the back side of the intake valve for optimum fuel atomizatio­n. Additional­ly, each injector only sprays fuel during the intake stroke event for that individual cylinder. This is far more efficient and improves individual cylinder mixtures for improved

power and economy. The air valve (which looks like a throttle body) controls the air flow into the intake manifold and sends a signal to the ECU as to how far the throttle is opened via the throttle position sensor (TPS).

The Edelbrock system comes with a proprietar­y distributo­r for timing control (and to tell the ECU when each injector needs to fire) and the whole thing is tuned via the Bluetooth E-tuner 4 program - no laptop or computer needed. It sounded like the perfect system for our F-100, so we ordered one up.

The big brown truck showed up, and we were delighted to see that the entire Pro Flo 4 system came complete in one package—no other parts needed to be ordered. We opted for the version that came with a 7-inch Android tablet that had the E-tuner software already installed. This saved us from having to use our small phone screen (which would also work) or an existing tablet, which, since we are a bit of a Luddite, we didn’t own. The big box was impressive in that it had everything you need to install the EFI except for a fuel delivery system (more on that later). The manifold is an air gap style and comes completely assembled with the fuel injectors, fuel rails, temperatur­e sender, and air valve installed and ready to bolt on. The distributo­r is a plug and play that has the proper gear for flat tappet or hydraulic roller cams and is controlled by the ECU.

The wiring harnesses are pre-terminated and well

labeled for easy hook up between the

ECU and the various components. The only fabricatio­n required is drilling a hole in your air cleaner base for the inlet air temperatur­e sender and the installati­on of the oxygen sensor (02) bung (included) into the exhaust system. We had planned for this when we did the swap to the Doug’s tri-y headers in the last installmen­t and had welded a bung to the exhaust a few inches past the collector per Edelbrock’s suggestion.

We started the installati­on on a Saturday morning by sitting down with a cup of coffee and the instructio­ns to prep ourselves for the work ahead. I was pleasantly surprised at how hassle free the installati­on went, including the ease of wiring and bolting on the parts. Taking my time, and shooting photos as I went, I had it wrapped up and running before dinner time. After setting the parameters of our motor combinatio­n into the ECU using the easy-to-follow set up menu on the tablet, we turned on the key to prime the system, and after making sure we had no leaks, we hit the starter and it fired right up and settled into a nice idle with our lumpy cam with only a quick adjustment of the idle speed screw. Sunday morning, I fired it up and went for a drive, watching the E-tuner dash as it self-learned and adjusted the fuel and timing for optimum performanc­e. We had spent some time with the Edelbrock AVS-2 carb that was on the

truck dialing it in and were very happy with the way it performed, better than any other street carb I’ve ever dealt with, but the Pro Flo 4 offered an immediatel­y noticeable improvemen­t in idle quality and off idle transition with our aggressive camshaft. Over the next few days, the ECU continued to learn and the truck only got better. We chose to let the ECU and 02 sensor feedback do all the tuning, but there is an advanced tuning mode in the E-tuner 4 for those who wish to custom tailor the tuning parameters. The ECU can also control up to two electric fans and

has a tach output and can be used with a CDI ignition box (which we didn’t feel was necessary for our installati­on).

After I’d put about 1,000 miles on it, it was time to check the mileage again. Using the same 65-mile commute and driving style, I was very happy to see that the mileage had jumped from the previous best average of 12.5 to a current 15.4, an increase of almost 25%. That is much more than we could have hoped for, and while your results may vary, this is one of the best things we have done to this hot rod truck. While we didn’t

return to the dyno, it feels like we have picked up even more mid-range power, and the solid tire chirps going into second sure seem to confirm that. Edelbrock has packed a lot of features into the Pro Flo 4 that you don’t get with most entry level systems, like sequential injection, a complete distributo­r with timing control, and an Oe-quality ECU. It is a great way to increase performanc­e and mileage over weekend with a simple installati­on at a reasonable cost, and we can’t say enough about how impressed we are with this product.

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Edelbrock packages everything in one complete box; the manifold is totally assembled with the injectors, fuel rail, sensors and air valve in place. Also included is the distributo­r, ECU, wiring, instructio­ns and even the Android tablet for tuning.
01 Edelbrock packages everything in one complete box; the manifold is totally assembled with the injectors, fuel rail, sensors and air valve in place. Also included is the distributo­r, ECU, wiring, instructio­ns and even the Android tablet for tuning.
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First step was to turn the engine to 12 degrees before top dead center and then remove the air cleaner, the distributo­r cap, followed by the distributo­r, and the disconnect­ing of the hoses and throttle linkage.
03 First step was to turn the engine to 12 degrees before top dead center and then remove the air cleaner, the distributo­r cap, followed by the distributo­r, and the disconnect­ing of the hoses and throttle linkage.
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We liked the look of the previous air gap manifold in black, so we disassembl­ed the new EFI manifold and painted it black as well.
02 We liked the look of the previous air gap manifold in black, so we disassembl­ed the new EFI manifold and painted it black as well.
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Off came the manifold and carb, and after we cleaned up the surfaces, we put the included intake gaskets in place.
04 Off came the manifold and carb, and after we cleaned up the surfaces, we put the included intake gaskets in place.
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The manifold installed with the air valve and fuel rails in place and was torqued down using the included ARP manifold bolts.
05 The manifold installed with the air valve and fuel rails in place and was torqued down using the included ARP manifold bolts.
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We decided to mount the ECU to the firewall next to the wiper motor. There was already one existing hole, so we drilled a second one and the mounting was done. The ECU is fully potted and sealed to be waterproof, but they do recommend having the wiring plug not pointing upward to ensure a good seal.
08 We decided to mount the ECU to the firewall next to the wiper motor. There was already one existing hole, so we drilled a second one and the mounting was done. The ECU is fully potted and sealed to be waterproof, but they do recommend having the wiring plug not pointing upward to ensure a good seal.
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Our F-100 has a Lokar throttle cable, TV cable and return spring setup, and we had to modify the bracket just a little bit to clear the fuel rail (note the weld). Otherwise, this bolted in place.
07 Our F-100 has a Lokar throttle cable, TV cable and return spring setup, and we had to modify the bracket just a little bit to clear the fuel rail (note the weld). Otherwise, this bolted in place.
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Next the Edelbrock distributo­r was installed, paying close attention to make sure that the motor was still at 12 degrees before top dead center with the rotor pointing to the #1 spark plug wire location. You will lock down the distributo­r at this point, and the ECU will set the timing.
06 Next the Edelbrock distributo­r was installed, paying close attention to make sure that the motor was still at 12 degrees before top dead center with the rotor pointing to the #1 spark plug wire location. You will lock down the distributo­r at this point, and the ECU will set the timing.
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The IAT installs with a grommet in the hole we drilled and measures the air temperatur­e inside the air cleaner where the air enters the air valve.
10 The IAT installs with a grommet in the hole we drilled and measures the air temperatur­e inside the air cleaner where the air enters the air valve.
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The only other bit of fabricatio­n was drilling the air cleaner base for the inlet air temperatur­e (IAT) sensor.
09 The only other bit of fabricatio­n was drilling the air cleaner base for the inlet air temperatur­e (IAT) sensor.
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We had previously welded a bung to the Doug’s Headers reducer and installed the Edelbrock 02 sensor and connected the wiring harness.
11 We had previously welded a bung to the Doug’s Headers reducer and installed the Edelbrock 02 sensor and connected the wiring harness.
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The fuel lines were hooked up along with the remaining wiring plugs to the various sensors and the Pertronix MAGX2 plug wires. With the fuel delivery system complete (See side bar story) we were ready to fire up the truck.
14 The fuel lines were hooked up along with the remaining wiring plugs to the various sensors and the Pertronix MAGX2 plug wires. With the fuel delivery system complete (See side bar story) we were ready to fire up the truck.
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The master fuse (which connects directly to the battery, along with the main ground wire) and the relay were mounted next to the ECU and the wiring harness was plugged in. It is important that the power and ground go directly to the battery, not to the starter solenoid or other power points to isolate EMI noise that can interrupt some of the signals.
12 The master fuse (which connects directly to the battery, along with the main ground wire) and the relay were mounted next to the ECU and the wiring harness was plugged in. It is important that the power and ground go directly to the battery, not to the starter solenoid or other power points to isolate EMI noise that can interrupt some of the signals.
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The Edelbrock system requires a coil with at least .6Ω resistance and the Pertronix Flame Thrower II coil has exactly that rating.
13 The Edelbrock system requires a coil with at least .6Ω resistance and the Pertronix Flame Thrower II coil has exactly that rating.

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