Valentino Cucina Ital­iana

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Tiramisu ($12) prised how many se­ri­ous eaters I know have not dined here), then I’m all for the changes. But all things con­sid­ered, I’d rather spend a lit­tle more for that suc­cu­lent bone-in veal chop with jus (still of­fered as an oc­ca­sional spe­cial) than breaded fried cut­lets, how­ever well pre­pared.

Even with the changes Valentino isn’t cheap, but there is good value to be had. It’s pos­si­ble to have a fine Cae­sar salad ($14), a soul­ful bu­ca­tini Ama­tri­ciana ($25) and a glass of wine for less than what a steak costs at some of the newer hot spots around town. That’s a good thing. Cui­sine: Mod­ern Ital­ian Cost: Hours: 6-10 p.m Mon­day-Thursday, 6-11 p.m. Fri­day-Saturday, closed Sun­day Reser­va­tions: Credit cards: All ma­jor Bar: Noise level: Con­ver­sa­tional, can get loud when full Wheel­chair ac­cess: Park­ing: Valet $4 or me­tered and free street nearby

Roc­chio’s finely tuned kitchen han­dles nearly ev­ery­thing with aplomb, in­clud­ing veal, beef, pork and spe­cials such as rab­bit, veni­son and foie gras. Fresh fish is caught and de­liv­ered by lo­cal fish­er­men (the restau­rant now has a li­cense al­low­ing di­rect pur­chases). A del­i­cate bar­relfish crudo ($21) was par­tic­u­larly good, as was a soft hunk of but­ter­poached sword­fish ($39) sur­rounded by clam-chow­der foam shot through an air-siphon, shelled clams, sun­chokes and bacon.

And oh, those house­made pas­tas. Ag­nolotti car­bonara ($24) is an an­gelic re-imag­in­ing of a heavy dish typ­i­cally made with spaghetti. Light pil­lows filled with a cus-

Ground level

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