Jimmy’s Fries to Caviar is a name to re­mem­ber

Bit of ev­ery­thing isn’t too much at Boca res­tau­rant.

Sun Sentinel Broward Edition - Showtime - South Broward - - DINING - By Claire Perez

I ad­mit I was skep­ti­cal about Jimmy’s Fries to Caviar from the start sim­ply be­cause of the name. It seemed an odd choice, a blan­ket state­ment to in­cor­po­rate ev­ery­thing un­der the sun with no fo­cus. The non­de­script strip-mall lo­ca­tion only bol­stered the case. Or so I thought. As it turns out, some­thing for ev­ery­one is the con­cept.

You may have tasted chef and co-owner Jimmy Mills’ food at his cozy Del­ray Beach spot, Jimmy’s Bistro. Mills teamed up with long­time em­ploy­ees to open Fries to Caviar, a moniker he once saw in a mag­a­zine and “filed” for fu­ture use.

“We went back and forth on the name,” Mills says. “It’s like nam­ing your child, so we gave it a lot of thought. I liked the idea of cre­at­ing a menu with a lit­tle bit of ev­ery­thing.”

The con­cept of of­fer­ing some­thing for ev­ery­one is a tough model to con­vey, but they suc­ceed with Mills’ eclec­tic, chef-driven menu and a tight front-of-thehouse staff to de­liver it.

When we pulled into the last avail­able spot in a tiny, packed park­ing lot on a Satur­day night, ev­ery­thing shifted. As we made our way to the front door, two em­ploy­ees putting fi­nal touches on side­walk ta­bles greeted us with a friendly wel­come. Just in­side the door, smil­ing hostesses stood at ease and of­fered a choice of re­served seat­ing. We were es­corted through a dimly lit, nar­row din­ing room. The mod­ern space is a mix of ta­bles and ban­quettes, dark wood floors, ex­posed in­dus­trial vents and lo­cal art­work adorn­ing the walls. We walked to­ward the pa­tio to en­joy the balmy night. Along the way, attentive servers greeted us with genu- ine warmth. The hos­pi­tal­ity was so pal­pa­ble that our ta­ble of four com­mented on it upon seat­ing.

Given the name and the buzz swirling around the res­tau­rant, it seemed ap­pro­pri­ate to or­der some­thing from the caviar menu. The lim­ited, sep­a­rate caviar menu changes pe­ri­od­i­cally based on sup­ply and de­mand. The Caviar Eggs on Eggs ($26), a flight of Amer­i­can os­e­tra white stur­geon, hack­le­back stur­geon, sal­mon and smoked trout caviars is served on crème fraiche dev­iled eggs pre­sented on a chilled plate beau­ti­fully gar­nished with chervil and shaved radish. The dev­iled eggs lacked the vel­vety qual­ity I had ex­pected the crème to im­part. I found my­self yearn­ing for the crunch and but­ter­i­ness of a toast point in be­tween eggs. A rich fries and caviar ($21) tops pota­toes with sal­mon and smoked trout caviars, dill beurre blanc and black-pep­per crème fraiche. Beet­root gravlax and caviar toast ($28) also pro­vides a tast­ing of four roes.

Off the main ap­pe­tizer menu, moist, over­size, house­made meat­balls ($12) with ri­cotta, fresh basil and a sprin­kle of grated Parme­san dis­ap­peared quickly. Ne­go­ti­a­tions en­sued over the fi­nal mol­lusk in the bowl of clams and ba­con ($14). The blast of smoky Nueske’s ba­con was the per­fect fla­vor ex­plo­sion and rich­ness for the

Jimmy’s Fries to Caviar

6299 N. Fed­eral High­way, Boca Ra­ton 561-617-5965, FriesToCaviar.com Cui­sine: Con­tem­po­rary Amer­i­can Cost: Ex­pen­sive Hours: Tues­day – Sun­day Reser­va­tions: Highly rec­om­mended Credit cards: All ma­jor Bar: Full ser­vice Sound level: Noisy when full Out­side smok­ing: Yes, sep­a­rate For kids: Wheel­chair ac­ces­si­ble: Yes Park­ing: Lim­ited park­ing lot, clams and white-wine broth. A cup of an­douille sausage and duck gumbo ($10) served over bas­mati rice was per­fectly sea­soned, but was more rice than gumbo.

In the salad and soup sec­tion ($9-$10), a lob­ster bisque piqued my in­ter­est. Hav­ing my sights set on a rich en­trée, the puff pas­try top­per de­terred me. Maybe next visit. Other stan­dards in­cluded moz­zarella and to­mato, a baby wedge and a gar­den bistro salad.

Shrimp po’boy ($14), with grilled onion, let­tuce, to­mato and chipo­tle mayo on a home­made roll, and Jimmy’s Cheese­burger ($15), served with hand-cut fries and a pickle, make up the sand­wich of­fer­ings. The burger, draped in a square of melted Amer­i­can cheese, was just over the re­quested medium rare and the grilled onions were marked, yet pale and un­der­cooked. The gen­er­ous por­tion of beef made for a two-fisted, wide-mouth at­tack.

A pre­dictable pan-seared At­lantic sal­mon ($24) with an Asian glaze ar­rived with a soup-bowl­molded mound of bas­mati rice, steamed asparagus spears and chopped chive gar­nish. The spe-

CLAIRE PEREZ/COUR­TESY

Caviar Eggs on Eggs at Jimmy’s Fries to Caviar in Boca Ra­ton. pa­tio area No spe­cific menu but will ac­com­mo­date street

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