Sun Sentinel Broward Edition

Jerk Machine returns

Jamaican eatery opens again in Fort Lauderdale with its finger-lickin’ dishes

- By John Tanasychuk Staff writer

From 1989 to 2012, the lunch crowd at downtown Fort Lauderdale’s Jerk Machine came to count on stick-to-your-ribs servings of curried chicken, oxtail stew and, of course, jerk chicken and pork.

Jerk Machine closed when All Aboard Florida bought up blocks of property near Broward Boulevard and the East Coast Railway to build its new station, leaving many customers bereft.

Two months ago, Catherine and Desmond Malcolm reopened their Jerk Machine, this time even closer to the Broward County employees at the courthouse and jail who make up the bulk of their customers. It is a welcome return.

Like its predecesso­r, Jerk Machine is a bright, no-frills cafeteria-style restaurant with a menu that changes with the day. It might be curry goat ($9 small/$10.50 large) or brown stew chicken ($7 small/$9 large). There’s always jerk chicken, either dark meat ($7.50 small/$9 large) or white meat ($8 small/$10 large).

Value-conscious diners will ask about the lunchtime special, when the price of several dishes is reduced to $5.99 with two sides. It’s the best deal in town, and you will leave either very full or carrying a doggy bag.

The women behind the counter will no doubt throw out a “sweetie” or other endearment as they load up your Styrofoam container, whether you dine in or take your food to go. Remember, I said no frills.

This is authentic Jamaican, so don’t come expecting boneless chicken breasts. You’ll need to use your hands as well as the tiny plastic knives and forks. The jerk chicken has a pleasant enough kick, and if

you want more spice, ask for a side of jerk sauce, judiciousl­y packaged in tiny, clear plastic containers.

Brown stew chicken, which you’ll find just about everywhere in the Caribbean, is a simple stew made with onions and peppers that is the mild opposite of fiery jerk chicken. It ’s served with rice. Sauce from the brown stew chicken also makes a nice rice topping, even if you’re not eating the stew.

Curry chicken ($7 small/$9 large) is wonderful, and served over rice and peas. It’s milder than Indian curry, and the women behind the counter will ask if you want potatoes in your curry along with chicken and sauce.

The menu also includes tilapia ($9.50 small/$11 large), snapper ($12 small/$15 large), stew peas ($8 small/$10 large) are flavored with plenty of pork.

Along with white rice or rice and peas, side choices include fried plantain and steamed cabbage. It’s an extra charge for green beans or , made with dried cod and prepared here as very thin patties.

Among the juices ($3) on the menu are fruit punch and pineapple ginger. They’re on the sweet side. I’d rather eat my sweets as dessert, and the restaurant serves a decent rum cake ($2.65), made, I’m assured, by a local Jamaican baker.

The downtown Fort Lauderdale Jerk Machine is the third location for the Malcolms. They also operate in Plantation and Lauderhill, their original spot, which opened 25 years ago. Catherine Malcolm says they’re looking now to open in Sunrise and Miami Gardens. There’s even talk of a Jerk Machine at Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood Internatio­nal Airport. That would make for a very warm Broward County welcome, indeed.

jtanasychu­k@SouthFlori­da.com or 954-356-4632. Read his blog at SouthFlori­da.com/Sup and follow him at Twitter. com/FloridaEat­s.

 ?? DON PARCHMENT/COURTESY ?? Jerk pork is a favorite at the new Jerk Machine in Fort Lauderdale.
DON PARCHMENT/COURTESY Jerk pork is a favorite at the new Jerk Machine in Fort Lauderdale.

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