Time is on Los Tacos’ side
The exterior of Los Tacos by ChefOmar is unassuming: a small storefrontwedged into a strip mall in Pembroke Pines.
Inside, theMexican restaurant is equally low-key, with10 to 12 tables in a space that can be politely described as cozy. But first impressions can be misleading. It’s casual, yes, but what Los Tacos serves is anything but humble fare. Chef Omar Covarrubias cooks with an authentic flair, and he flavors his food with flourish. There is magic inside Los Tacos.
If you knowa little about Covarrubias, it’s easy to seewhy. Hewas born inMexico City, and grew upworking in his parents’ hotel restaurant in Cuautla, Morelos, Mexico. Eventually, he served as the executive chef for Mexican president Ernesto Zedillo. After a stint in Southern California, hemoved to South Florida in the mid-1990s, and became a frequent guest on Univision’s “Despierta America.” He traveled extensively, working in kitchens in Italy, France and Switzerland.
In addition to his other eatery, Guacamole by Chef Omar in Lake Worth, Covarrubias is rolling out the Los Tacos franchise throughout the region. Along with the Pembroke Pines restaurant, Los Tacos has locations in Boca Raton and Coral Springs.
“I’m takingmy time,” Covarrubias says, adding that he’s eyeing Miami and Miami Springs for his next locations. “I started four years ago on Pines Boulevard. Five months ago, we opened the one in Coral Springs. That one has a full bar. Two months ago, we opened in Boca.”
The thing that ties them all together is attention to detail and strict supervision of the kitchen. To insure authenticity, Covarrubias even flies in ingredients fromMexico, things such as chilies, oregano and the herb epazote.
“It’s pricey, but it’sworth it,” the Southwest Ranches resident says. “Even if it’s expensive, I don’t care, because that is [part of the] experience.”
Our experience started with guacamole and chips ($10.90). The avocadowas fresh, and the texture just right: not too mushy, not too firm. The chips, made fresh daily from housemade tortilla chips, were not overly salty, which helped assuage any guilt aswe devoured them. Wewashed it all down with a pitcher of sangria ($18.99).
For a main course, we chose the fish tacos ($12.50), red snapper fromBaja California served with chipotle-lime-mayo coleslawand topped with pico de gallo. Served three at a time, the fish had a crispy, fried batter devoid of grease andwas ever-so-slightly sweet, as it was cooked with beer.
The la tampiquena ($17.90), a churrasco steak served with an enchilada, rojas poblanos and a side of rice and beans had awoodsy thing going on due to, again in a guess, whatever itwas marinated in. The chicken tinga quesadillas ($9.90), shredded chicken breast
Los Tacos by Chef Omar
17722 Pines Blvd., Pembroke Pines 954-447-6262,
Cuisine: Cost: Hours: Reservations: Credit cards:
Bar:
Sound level: Outside smoking: For kids:
Wheelchair accessible: