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Around since ’90s, double brown ales quietly trending

- By Zak Stambor Chicago Tribune

There’s an old media axiom that three make a trend. By that standard, it’s safe to say that double brown ales are a trend. But amid a craft beer landscape in which there’s no shortage of any given style, double brown ales are relative rarities.

That’s surprising if you think about it. After all, like Beanie Babies and frosted tips, brown aleswere cool in the ’90s. Just about every brewery that popped up had one.

But as the craft beer market came to focus on hops, big beers, barrel aging, sours and lagers, brown ales got lost in the shuffle.

“Browns have always been overshadow­ed by new styles that were trending,” says Tony Hansen, head brewer at Short’s Brewing Co., which brews a year-round brown ale, Bellaire Brown, aswell as the double brown ale GoodHumans that is its winter seasonal.

Yet few styles offer a better entry point than brown ales for people who say they don’t like beer but do like chocolate and coffee.

And double brown ales are high-alcohol beers for those who aren’t necessaril­y into big beers.

Just about any time of the year, a double brown ale is about as satisfying a beer as you can get. Not as bright and hoppy as an IPA and not as dark as a stout or porter, a beer like GoodHumans, FirestoneW­alker’s Bravo, Port Brewing’s BoardMeeti­ng or the recentHalf Acre Beer Co./Ska Brewing collaborat­ion, Old Century Imperial Brown Ale, sits in a middle ground. They’re mediumbodi­ed beers that are toasty and sweet, yet also hoppy. They’re big but not too big. And they’re typically balanced.

Those traits are what ledHalf Acre and Ska to choose a double brown ale when they decided to brew a beer using Ska’s original Century brewing system, which Half Acre bought fromSka in 2008.

“We didn’twant to do something tooweird,” says Ska Brewing co-ownerDave Thibodeau.

Basing the beer on Ska’s Buster Nut Brown Ale, the brewers decided to make the beer bigger than Ska’s staple, with more caramel, coffee and chocolate notes. “It’s not crazy or ridiculous.” It’s just a nice, wellrounde­d beer.

 ?? MICHAEL TERCHA/CHICAGO TRIBUNE ?? Brown ales, like Short’s Brewing Co.’s Bellaire Brown, can be an entry point for people who don’t like beer but like chocolate and coffee.
MICHAEL TERCHA/CHICAGO TRIBUNE Brown ales, like Short’s Brewing Co.’s Bellaire Brown, can be an entry point for people who don’t like beer but like chocolate and coffee.

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