Sun Sentinel Palm Beach Edition

US shoe retailers warn against tariffs, trade war

- By Rachel Siegel

WASHINGTON — More than 170 of the nation’s largest footwear companies have sent a clear message to President Donald Trump: A trade war with China will burn a hole in Americans’ soles.

The shoe sellers signed a letter to the White House warning of the “catastroph­ic” effects that Trump’s proposed 25% tariffs would have on consumers, companies and the U.S. economy. Trump last week proposed the higher tariffs against shoe imports as part of a broader package of restrictio­ns on $300 billion in Chinese goods, including many consumer items. The U.S. already has imposed tariffs, a type of import tax, on $250 billion in Chinese products, but consumer products had largely been shielded during that round.

Consumers ultimately absorb the tariffs in the form of higher retail prices, the shoe companies said, despite Trump’s insistence that China will foot the bill. Monday’s letter included signatures from such powerhouse­s as Nike, Adidas, Foot Locker, Ugg, Crocs, Steve Madden, Skechers and Converse.

“We can assure you that any increase in the cost of importing shoes has a direct impact on the American footwear consumer,” the letter said. “It is an unavoidabl­e fact that as prices go up at the border due to transporta­tion costs, labor rate increases, or additional duties, the consumer pays more for the product.”

The footwear industry is not alone: Economists and other business groups contend that tariffs are a tax on Americans that comes due on the U.S. companies that import foreign goods. Trump has countered that imposing tariffs incentiviz­es companies to move production back to the U.S.

He has also said it is the only way to get Beijing’s attention as he seeks leverage in his trade fight — a battle he maintains the U.S. is “winning.”

“We’re going to be collecting over $100 billion in tariffs,” Trump told reporters last week from the South Lawn.

Complicati­ng matters further: The shoe industry is deeply entrenched in China.

In their letter, footwear companies warned that they can’t “simply move factories to adjust to these changes.” After all, footwear is one of the nation’s most heavily imported products, with nearly all shoes manufactur­ed outside the U.S. Nearly three-quarters of those imports come from China, the American Apparel & Footwear Associatio­n said last year.

Matt Priest, president and chief executive of the Footwear Distributo­rs and Retailers of America, an industry group, said many retailers have already begun to map out costs for spring 2020 and that some of its members are worried the new tariffs will put them out of business. Priest said his organizati­on has not yet heard back from the White House.

“The uncertaint­y is probably the big killer,” Priest said. “In the meantime, we have to plan for the unthinkabl­e.”

If the tariffs kick in, then consumers would feel it almost immediatel­y because they’re assessed once a good crosses the border, Priest said. That would affect back-to-school inventory, as well as holiday sales later in the year, he said.

One of the reasons footwear is harder to produce elsewhere is because of the manufactur­ing process, which is more complicate­d than making, say, a pair of pants, said Neil Saunders, managing director of research firm GlobalData Retail.

The intricate process means that companies have already made a hefty investment in Chinese equipment and therefore have budgeted for cheaper labor costs.

“All through the supply chain, an increase in tariffs has quite a negative effect,” Saunders said.

The Footwear Distributo­rs & Retailers of America estimates that the proposed tariffs would tack on an additional $7 billion in annual costs for customers. That’s on top of the existing $3 billion a year in tariffs paid by the shoe industry, thanks to legislatio­n from 1930 that was intended to protect U.S. manufactur­ing during the Great Depression.

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FRANCK FIFE/GETTY-AFP

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