Beer-battered fried cod

Makes: 4 servings

4 cups peanut or vegetable oil

1 ½ cups all-purpose flour, divided

½ cup cornstarch

1 teaspoon baking powder

¼ teaspoon baking soda

Salt

¼ teaspoon paprika

¾ cup light-flavored beer (such as Budweiser) or soda water, ice cold

¾ cup ice water

1 pound cod fillet, cut into 4 (4-ounce) pieces

Note: To keep the beer or soda water extra-cold, put a refrigerated can or bottle in a large bowl of ice water 1 hour before using.

1. Heat the oil to 350 degrees in a large wok or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, whisk together 1 cup of flour, cornstarch, baking powder, baking soda, 2 teaspoons salt and paprika in a large bowl. Combine the beer and ¾ cup ice water in a small bowl.

2. Add remaining ½ cup flour to another large bowl. Toss the fish pieces in the flour until evenly coated. Transfer to a wire rack set on a rimmed baking sheet.

3. Slowly add the beer mixture to the flour-cornstarch mixture, whisking just until batter has the texture of thick paint (you may not need all of the beer). The batter should leave a trail if you drip it back into the bowl off the whisk. Do not overmix; a few small lumps are OK.

4. Transfer fish to batter and turn to coat. Pick up one piece of cod from one edge, allowing excess batter to drip back into bowl. Quickly dip it into bowl of flour and turn to coat both sides, and then carefully transfer it to hot oil, lowering it in slowly to prevent splashes. Repeat for all 4 pieces. Cook, moving fish occasionally with wiremesh spider or long fork, flipping fish halfway through cooking, until the cod is golden brown and crisp on all sides, about 8 minutes.

5. Transfer the fish to a paper-towel-lined plate and season immediately with salt. Serve with tartar sauce.