A world of wisdom

Beef stews from around the globe all spin a small amount of meat into a one-pot wonder

Beef stew may be considered old-fashioned, but it remains one of the world’s great dishes — and one of the easiest. Since realizing that I could call it “winebraised short ribs” and serve it at a dinner party, I have made beef stew in whatever form I find it: rendang and chili, stracotto and birria, daube and galbijjim.

For all of their differences, each of these versions from around the globe perform the same feat, spinning a small amount of meat into a complex, flavorful one-pot wonder. Making — and eating — them again and again has helped me appreciate the wisdom they contain about what works best.

It turns out that a few basic decisions can generate a nearly foolproof formula for beef stew.

Start with leaner meat

For a rich, succulent stew, resist the instinct to buy the gorgeously marbled piece of meat you would want for a steak or roast. Look instead for cuts with cartilage, tendons and (at least a few) bones: Chuck, brisket, oxtails, cheeks and shin are ideal. What grocery stores label as “stew beef ” is less succulent but perfectly fine, especially in large pieces like 2-inch chunks; with smaller pieces, keep the heat especially gentle to prevent them from drying out.

Don’t forget the alliums

Beef always gets along with alliums: scallions and leeks, garlic and onions. The last two are nearly the only seasonings in the Jewish American pot roast.

Add brightness and depth

Beef stew can take nearly any seasoning you throw at it, but the most delicious ones have lots of fresh aromatics and spices that balance out the heaviness of meat.

When trying a new recipe,

I lean toward ingredients like tomato paste, which adds sweet and tart flavors. Just as Hungarian goulash is transformed by paprika, Italian brasatos benefit from the rasp of red wine, and some Southeast Asian and Caribbean stews are lifted by the bittersweet edge of caramelized brown sugar.

Don’t feel you have to brown

Browning the meat is entirely optional and far from universally practiced. Browning does generate caramelized flavors, but that’s not a priority for everyone. Boiling produces a richer cooking

liquid, eliminating the need for stock or bouillon cubes, Mexican food writer and historian Pati Jinich said.

Baking can be better

Ever since I discovered Amanda Hesser’s recipe for Roman oxtails, I have baked all my stews in a covered pot instead of simmering them uncovered on the stove. The heat comes from all directions, instead of just the bottom, which eliminates the need for frequent stirring.

In an oven set at 250 or 275 degrees, a heavy pot behaves like a slow cooker. When the pot is covered, your ingredients should not be swimming in liquid but wading, waist deep. A good rule is to cover the aromatics and vegetables, but leave an inch of meat sticking out above the surface.

JULIA GARTLAND/THE NEW YORK TIMES PHOTOS Brisket or chuck can be used for a beef stew made like traditional pot roast, such as this Jewish American pot roast, with lots of onions and carrots.

Floyd Cardoz created this stew of short ribs and cabbage braised with peanuts and anchovies from his memories of a Filipino kare-kare.