BRAISED SHORT RIBS WITH PEANUTS AND ANCHOVIES

This is an adaptation of the tangy, rich Filipino meat stew kare-kare, which itself is adapted from the Indian-influenced massaman curries of Southeast Asia. Indian American chef Floyd Cardoz brought it full circle when he recreated it for American home cooks in his 2016 book “Floyd Cardoz: Flavorwalla” (Artisan).

It’s an excellent illustration of how a great stew can fuse flavors that might seem incompatible, like peanuts, cabbage and anchovies. Makes: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: About 3 ½ hours 1 ½ pounds boneless beef short ribs, cut into 2-inch cubes, or 2 ½ to 3 pounds bone-in ribs

Kosher salt

3 tablespoons canola oil 1 ½ teaspoons black peppercorns

1 dried chipotle chile, broken in half

2 bay leaves

1 medium onion, sliced (1 ½ cups)

4 garlic cloves, smashed 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced into thin coins 1 small head savoy cabbage 1 cup unsalted roasted peanuts 4 anchovy fillets, minced Steamed rice (optional), for serving

1. Season the beef with salt; set aside at room temperature for at least 20 minutes.

2. In a large stew pot, heat the oil over medium until it shimmers. Add the peppercorns, chile and bay leaves and cook, stirring, until they are fragrant and little bubbles form around the spices, about 1 minute. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook until the onion is translucent, stirring occasionally, 3 to 4 minutes.

3. Add the seasoned short ribs, plus 5 cups water and a pinch of salt (don’t add too much here). Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover and simmer until the meat is tender when pierced with a fork, 2 ½ to 3 hours.

4. While the short ribs simmer, separate the cabbage leaves and cut the ribs out of each one. Stack the leaves a few at a time and cut into 2-inch pieces. Set aside 4 cups of chopped cabbage for this dish, reserving the remainder for another use.

5. Place the peanuts in a blender with 1 ½ cups water; purée. 6. Once the meat has simmered until tender, add the anchovies to the pot, along with the 4 cups chopped cabbage and the peanut purée. Bring to a simmer, stirring to prevent sticking, and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is tender, about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt.

7. Remove and discard the bay leaves and chipotle halves, if desired. Serve in shallow bowls, with rice if you like.