Per­fect Day


Surfer - - Contents -

“This is pretty much the most per­fect breach-break wave I’ve ever seen,” says pho­tog­ra­pher Al Mack­in­non of this golden-hued right south of the bor­der. “Greg and I had been trav­el­ing a bit to­gether, and when he saw the di­rec­tion of this swell and the Santa Ana winds, he knew this beach break could be on. The surf ended up pump­ing all day. It wasn’t nec­es­sar­ily the big­gest day, but the waves were the kind of invit­ing bar­rels where you know as soon as you pull in that you’ll make it out.”

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