Per­fect Day

Teahupo'o, Tahiti

Surfer - - Contents - SHAY­DEN PACARRO Photo by BEN THOUARD

“At home, we’re al­ways hav­ing to adapt to mother na­ture, be it hur­ri­canes or vol­ca­noes,” says 21-year-old Big Is­land na­tive Shay­den Pacarro, pic­tured here in a Tahi­tian cav­ern. “So I just try to re­mem­ber that ev­ery wave is a bless­ing, and this one was such a beau­ti­ful wave. I went to Tahiti for my birth­day and ended up stay­ing there for a month, and this wave [pic­tured] was the third swell of my trip. All the lo­cals were get­ting amaz­ing waves that day, and I re­mem­ber catch­ing a cou­ple that were just a lit­tle too deep and I had to pad­dle around the la­goon a few times. I told my­self to re­lax and catch the right wave and I ended up luck­ing out. The next day I was plan­ning on fly­ing back to Hawaii, so this was ac­tu­ally one of the last waves I caught there.”

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