Kids, chef boldly tackle scones, food science and more
12-year-old Olivia Gossett has no problem whipping up a batch of homemade ricotta. Her mother, Clemence, is a pastry chef and co-owner of the Gourmandise School in Santa Monica. Olivia practically grew up in the kitchen, and the cheese is but one of the recipes she knows by heart.
Clemence Gossett is in the Los Angeles Times Test Kitchen to shoot videos demonstrating kid-friendly recipes: flaky scones, roasted strawberries and homemade ricotta. She’s brought Olivia and her 3-yearold brother, Xavier, along with 11-year-old Sebastian Huchman.
Clemence demonstrates the scones first, with assistance from Sebastian. It’s all about the science of baking, she stresses, alternately addressing Sebastian and the camera while he asks novice baking questions about flour and sugar, how to mix and why it’s important that the dough stays cold. As the two work the dough, Clemence explains how—and, more important, why—the scones come together as they do. She discusses how baking powder works and why over-mixing can toughen the scones. As the two follow the recipe, Clemence explains the importance of using cold butter and leaving noticeable bits of it in the dough before baking: Later in the oven, the heat causes the chilled butter bits to steam, creating those characteristic flaky layers.
The dough looks shaggy at first as they pat it into a round before freezing for a bit to further chill the dough. When it’s ready, they cut scones using a biscuit cutter. “Punch out, but do not twist,” Clemence reminds Sebastian, “as this will seal the layers and disrupt the rising of your scones.”
While they watch the scones baking, Clemence cautions against taking them out too early. “Don’t be afraid,” she says. “Color is good. Bake the scones darker for richer flavor.”
Clemence is surrounded by all three kids as she demonstrates roasted strawberries. “This is a great job for little kids,” she laughs, as Xavier helps wash and clean the tender berries. The recipe is simple: Remove the leaves and stems from the berries, then roast them on a pan until softened and fragrant. The heat enhances the depth of flavor in the berries as they roast, their aroma filling the kitchen.
As she completes her demo, Olivia drains the fresh ricotta. This will be served as a spread for the scones. “Milk is 90 percent water with little particles of fats and casein floating around,” Olivia calmly explains to the camera. “When heated, the fat and casein get scared of the water, and when you add acid, the fat and casein huddle up together to create curds.”
“I was never afraid in the kitchen,” said Clemence, describing how her own parents encouraged her early on, always providing ingredients as she experimented in the kitchen. She’s done the same with her kids. “It’s what’s familiar to them.” Beyond understanding the hows and whys behind the science of a recipe, cooking and baking are also about building confidence in others and learning to trust in yourself. Which is true if you’re 3, or 12—or any age.
SCONES WITH ROASTED
STRAWBERRIES About 1 hour. Makes about 8 scones, depending on size SCONES 2 cups (264 grams) flour 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons sugar 1/4 cup grated Gruyere or white cheddar
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, very cold and chopped into little pieces
3/4 cups buttermilk (or milk with 2 teaspoons lemon juice added to it) 2 tablespoons heavy cream 3 tablespoons milk 2 tablespoons coarse organic or turbinado sugar, for sprinkling
Heat the oven to 375 degrees. In a large bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder, salt, sugar and cheese.
Rub the butter into the flour mixture just until each piece is reduced to about the size of your fingernail. Stir in the buttermilk and heavy cream just until the liquid is absorbed by all of the flour. Dump the dough onto a parchment-lined baking sheet and, using a flat, open hand, pat the dough to a uniform thickness of approximately 1/2 inch. Freeze for 30 minutes.
Using a biscuit or similar round cutter, punch out the scones, spacing them at least 2 inches apart on a parch-ment-lined cookie sheet. Brush with milk and sprinkle over the coarse sugar. Bake until puffed and a rich golden brown, 10 to 20 minutes, depending on the size. Cool slightly before removing and serving.
ROASTED STRAWBERRIES 1 (4-ounce) basket strawberries
Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Trim the green leaves from the strawberries and place upsidedown on a parchment- or foil-lined cookie sheet. Roast until softened and fragrant, 10 to 20 minutes. Set the sheet aside until the strawberries are cooled. Mash 1/3 of the berries
to serve inside the scones, reserving the rest for the plate.
Adapted from the Gourmandise School of Sweets and Savories in Santa Monica
RICOTTA
15 minutes, plus draining time. Makes about 2 cups cheese
3 cups whole milk 1 cup heavy cream Salt 3 tablespoons white vinegar
Place the milk, cream and a pinch of salt in a large saucepan. Heat over medium heat, stirring regularly, until the mixture reaches a good simmer.
Remove from heat and pour in the vinegar. Stir two or three times, gently, around the pot, then set aside, undisturbed, for a few minutes.
Place two or three layers of cheesecloth over a colander (with the colander in the sink or over a large bowl to catch the whey), and gently pour the mixture over the cloth. If you don’t have cheesecloth, use one layer of a flour-sack towel.
Set the mixture aside to drain for at least one hour. The longer you wait, the firmer your cheese will be. Once the curds are the consistency you want, remove them and refrigerate them right away.
Adapted from the Gourmandise School of Sweets and Savories in Santa Monica