UNDER THE HOOD
Mechanics want to do full overhaul on car
Q:I’m in my 70s. I own a 2004 Toyota Corolla 2004, bought it new. I get the oil changed every six months, live in Florida, have 42,000 miles on it. Since 2011 I have changed the tires, cabin air filter, battery and alternator, drive belt and serpentine belt. Now the car works great, no complaints from me except that my usual mechanic wants to replace the water pump, struts, pads and rotors, upper and lower hoses, flush coolant to the cost of $2,100! I am not noticing any difficulty in the running of the car. So I went to another place for the last change of oil, where the mechanic suggested I replace the tires, the battery and the cabin air filter, no mention of above.
What do you think? I read your column every week and I see that some people end up spending a lot of money getting things that are not necessary. —N.N.
A: Yikes! Let's take a look at why these services might be needed and perhaps a third inspection/opinion is called for. After 13 years of service it would be nice to give the cooling system some attention. I think flushes are overrated, but hoses and a thorough drain/ rinse and refill with appropriate coolant/water is a reasonable thing to do. Water pumps are usually replaced because they leak, make noise, or are a sensible thing to renew at the time of timing belt replacement. Perhaps your first tech noted leakage? Some staining at the weep hole is normal, but there shouldn't be any signs of actual fluid dripping.
Struts, which contain your shock absorbers, are a tough call. The folks that make replacements recommend renewing them every 50,000 miles. I don't think years make much difference. If yours show no signs of leakage and you don't drive the Corolla under demanding conditions (rough and/or twisty roads), or notice excessive bouncing or tire tread cupping, they can probably go further.
Brake pads are either needed or not, depending on remaining lining thickness or possible damage from overheating or a leaking caliper. Toyota's minimum lining thickness spec is 1 millimeter. I'd recommend changing pads a bit sooner than this unless the brakes are inspected frequently. You don't want to accidently grind the pad backs into the rotors.
Any two techs will differ on opinion as the pads wear down into this range. Brake rotors should be straight, not scored or heat-checked, and at least 25 mm thick. I'd tolerate slightly imperfect original rotors of sufficient thickness over frequently junky replacements, were it my car.
Tires should be changed in wet conditions when the tread is worn down to 4/32 inches (groove depth); the legal minimum is 2/32 inches. Wear bars, perpendicular to the tread, also indicate they're at the end of the road. Ten years is also considered to be the age limit for tires. Unless damaged or you drive in high speed/demanding conditions, changing them early doesn't make much sense.
Battery? Unless you've had symptoms (slow cranking, lights dimming at idle, the need to jump start) your second tech may have based his/her recommendation by age alone or conductance test results. Batteries typically last five to eight years in a mild climate, less in really cold or hot areas. Warm weather is an easy time for a battery, while a marginal one can often last until winter.
Cabin air filter replacement is recommended every 30,000 miles. In humid or dusty areas, a change may be needed earlier if odors or low airflow are noted.
ABOUT THE WRITER
Brad Bergholdt is an automotive technology instructor at Evergreen Valley College in San Jose, Calif. Readers may send him email at bradbergholdt@gmail.com; he cannot make personal replies.