At Home in Al­sace (Part 1)

The Advance of Bucks County - - BUCKS COUNTY BUSINESS -

beau.comLF a ren­o­vated N6th Cen­tury tim­ber framed build­ing, just steps from ptras­bourg Cathe­dral. For­merly an inn from the time of Czars and mrinces, it cap­tured the am­bi­ence of Al­sace with ev­ery mod­ern con­ve­nience.

te were im­me­di­ately struck with three things about the city of ptras­bourgW its beauty, its an­tiq­uity and its fab­u­lous food.

f had done enough re­search to know f was in store for bi­cul­tural cui­sine in Al­sace. kot a huge fan of der­man fare, f fig­ured f could live on beer, cheese and wiener­schnitzel for a few days, pro­vided f didn’t sched­ule blood work for at least a month af­ter our re­turn.

te en­joyed our first lunch in Al­sace at tin­stub le Clou Ewww.le-clou.comLF. The restau­rant was quiet when we ar­rived at noon, and we chided our­selves for be­ing “typ­i­cal tourists,” think­ing we needed reser­va­tions. By NOWPM the place was packed with lo­cals. The menu writ­ten in French in­cluded a fu­sion of French and der­man dishes, “les spé­cial­ités Al­sa­ci­ennes.”

Drinks were promptly served by a friendly waitress who spoke bnglish and was more than happy to ex­plain of­fer­ings like “ia Chou­croute ooyale avec tädele” Eham and sauer­kraut!F. The food was a lit­tle slow get­ting to us, but the at­mos­phere so charm­ing and the French and der­man speak­ing lo­cals so con­vivial, who cared? The “ic­ing on the cake,” at the end of the meal was a se­lec­tion of liqueur fla­vored sor­bets. jag­nifique!

te spent the af­ter­noon soak­ing up the beauty of the me­dieval build­ings, in­clud­ing the iconic ptras­bourg Cathe­dral EhttpWLLwww. stras­bourg.in­foL­cathe­dralLF, took a boat tour of the city on the oiver flle Ewww.ba­torama. frLF and ended sip­ping a glass of cham­pagne at a cozy bar over­look­ing the oiver in ptras­bourg’s his­toric ia metite France neigh­bor­hood.

For din­ner we found Chez Yvonne Ewww. restau­rant-chez-yvonne.netLenLF,

tucked away on a lit­tle side street, listed in the Au­gust OMNO is­sue of kewsweek as one of the top NM restau­rants in the world. hnown for its Al­sa­tian spe­cial­ties, this place lived up to its rep­u­ta­tion. te in­dulged in paté and veal and paired our choices with a lo­cal minot koir, jartin pchaet­zel, Cu­vée jathieu, Ap­pel­la­tion d’Al­sace Côn­trollé, OMNM. You’d never find this in the ptates.

ln a roll, we could hardly wait for the next day to travel south where we had made an ap­point­ment to visit Do­maine brnest Burn and its cor­dial owner Fran­cois. te rented a car at dare de ptras­bourg and headed to­ward Col­mar, stop­ping briefly in kie­der­morschwihr at Chris­tine Fer­ber Ewww.christine­fer­ber.comLChris­tine-Fer­ber. html.F ln the oue des Trois bpices Enot hard to findF this charm­ing shop was packed with gourmet de­lights, and we bought jars of con­fi­tures EjamsF in fla­vors they can only come up with in Al­sace. te left re­luc­tantly, wish­ing we had more time to shop and more room in our suit­cases.

Af­ter a quick but mem­o­rable lunch of pork ribs and spaet­zle Eone serv­ing was enough to feed an Amer­i­can fam­ily of four!F at ie Caveau pt. mierre in Col­mar Ewww. lecaveau­saint­pierre-col­mar.comLF, we trav­eled about NM miles south to due­ber­schwihr.

As win­ery own­ers our­selves, we felt a lit­tle guilty about im­pos­ing on our host Fran­cois Burn on a pun­day af­ter­noon. Af­ter all it was har­vest time. te thought of our own typ­i­cally hec­tic sched­ules in late peptem­ber and fig­ured the guy would have an hour to spend with us. Tops.

To be con­tin­ued…iook for mart ff of “At eome in Al­sace” in July’s Through The drapevine

Chris­tine Car­roll is a colum­nist for Wines and Vines Mag­a­zine in San Rafael, Cal­i­for­nia. She is also one of the prin­ci­pals of Cross­ing Vine­yards and Win­ery, a for­mer mem­ber of the Penn­syl­va­nia Win­ery As­so­ci­a­tion’s Board of Di­rec­tors and mem­ber of The Bucks County Wine Trail’s Mar­ket­ing Com­mit­tee. You can con­tact her at: [email protected] cross­ingvine­yards.com

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