Coastal hikes
Museums
It will rain in Dublin. Fortunately, all of Ireland’s state-funded museums are free and most are near one another, surrounding the office of Prime Minister Enda Kenny and Ireland’s parliament building, Leinster House, which can be toured weekdays. Don’t worry about official advice saying you need a special diplomatic contact, just ask the guards for the next tour time.
Next door, the National Library this year features exhibits on James Joyce and W.B. Yeats, including many of the poet’s letters and unfinished works. The National Gallery is partly closed this year, greatly reducing its flagship display of Impressionist work by Yeats’ brother Jack, but a special exhibition on Yeats’ travel sketchbooks is worth a look.
No fan of the Yeatses? The National Museum of Ireland has three Dublin bases, all free. The Archaeology Museum displays An American tourist group gathers outside Christ Church Cathedral in Dublin. The 11th-century cathedral is a focal point for tourists exploring the medieval Viking origins of Dublin more than a millennium ago. Celtic gold artifacts, including stunning broad necklaces called lunulas and torcs. Children will enjoy the small, old-fashioned Natural History Museum with glass cases full of animals preserved in the 19th century. The best venue is across the River Liffey near Phoenix Park, where Ireland displays historical artifacts in a former army barracks. All are closed Mondays.
Details: www.oireachtas.ie/ parliament, www.nli.ie, www.na tionalgallery.ie, www.museum.ie.
You’re going to want to see more of Ireland, so pack hardsoled boots and a rainproof windbreaker. The commuter DART rail service hugs the Irish Sea coastline and can drop you at popular trailheads with ocean views.
Try the 4.3-mile loop around the Howth peninsula overlooking Dublin Bay, which you can start in the fishing village’s trawler- and yacht-packed harbor. The best local sandy beach is in posh Malahide to the north.
Or head south to Bray. From its arcade-studded promenade, you can use an inland path to climb a cross-topped hill called Bray Head, with views all the way to Wales. Or take a 90minute cliffside hike — don’t worry, fences and spiky hedges separate you from death — to the upscale village of Greystones, the most southerly DART stop.
All paths are likely to be muddy in spots even on sunny days. Consider the mud a free souvenir.
Details: www.discoverire land.ie, www.enjoymalahide .com, visitwicklow.ie/activities/ wicklow-walks.