Chinatown offers hidden charms in City of Light
PARIS — Ask a Parisian about the city’s Chinatown and you’re likely to get an answer that’s uncharacteristically reticent. “It’s not exactly where I’d bring someone,” natives will demur politely. It’s the rare person who will say what most locals feel: “There’s nothing to see there.”
It’s true that the highrise buildings of the Quartier Chinois, as it’s formally known, seem somewhat soulless, especially compared with nearby monuments such as the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe. The Quartier Chinois also feels quieter and less crowded than Chinatowns in New York and San Francisco — although here, as in those cities, it’s not unusual to see people practicing tai chi outdoors.
But this is the largest Chinatown in Europe, and its hidden charms include, among other things, an impressive diversity, drawing on the heritage of French colonies including Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos as well as other parts of Southeast Asia. For visitors adventurous enough to wander off wellworn tourist tracks and who relish the possibility of redefining the unforgettable Parisian meal, the Quartier Chinois’ vibrancy awaits discovery. It’s an excursion for all the senses.
Getting there
Take the 5, 6 or 7 Metro lines to the Place d’Italie station or the 14 to Olympiades. Stroll down the triangle formed by the forking of the two main arteries, Avenue de Choisy and Avenue d’Ivry.
For the biggest slice of the action, head there Wednesday through Sunday; as in other areas of the city, many places are closed Mondays or Tuesdays. The neighborhood is in the 13th arrondissement and is not to be confused with a smaller Asian enclave in Belleville.
Sight
No trip to the Quartier Chinois is complete without a stop at Tang Freres, one of the largest Asian supermarkets in Europe. It offers a dizzying hodgepodge of produce, spices, meats and rice cookers.
Produce is the main draw at the smaller and more easily navigable Thai Fruits Center. You’ll also find unusual beverages such as canned bubble tea from Taiwan and Bourbonbrand beer from Reunion, the French-speaking island off the coast of Madagascar.
On the outskirts, the shopping center at Les Olympiades is a popular gathering spot, with stalls hawking kitschy bric-a-brac from Asia. There’s a Buddhist temple here.
Sound
Easily identified by the eye-popping mural painted on one of its facades, the Notre Dame de Chine is a modern Catholic church that offers occasional concerts as well as Mass and traditional hymns.
Scent
Durian, the notoriously pungent Southeast Asian fruit, makes its way into tarts at Patisserie de Choisy. Less adventurous eaters can sample pastries with milder flavors such as pandan leaf and coconut, or pick up steamed buns with savory meat fillings. Wash it all down, if you dare, with durian-flavored bubble tea at Teawan.
Taste
Don’t miss the mouthwatering and surprisingly inexpensive banh mi sandwiches at Hoa Nam, where flavorful vegetables and meats on fresh baguettes are the stars. For another quick bite, the cafeteriastyle offerings at Tang Gourmet include dumplings, rolls, and rice-andmeat plate combos to stay or to go.
For a hearty sit-down meal, follow the hordes to Pho Banh Cuon 14, known locally as Pho 14, a Vietnamese noodle place whose runaway success has inspired many imitations. The real deal has lines out the door, but casual and efficient service make for short waits.
For Chinese cuisine, Sinorama is a neighborhood institution. The Cambodian fare at Mondol Kiri is among the pricier options, but it also offers the most upscale ambience and experience in the vicinity. Trendy types will like Lao Lane Xang, which pairs Laotian cuisine with modern decor.
Touch
Pick up a paddle and test the ping-pong tables at Parc de Choisy. On sunny days, the fountains, foliage and carousel make the park very picnic-friendly.