Vegetable burger

Hopdoddy: La Bandita ($8) had pretty much anything a vegetarian desires in a faux burger: a black-bean and corn patty, avocado, goat cheese, arugula and a wheat bun. The combination may be satisfying for veggie cravers, but I’d venture to say meat lovers would be sorely disappointed. Notorious: The Dame’s Vegetable Quinoa ($9) accomplished something so rare that it’s almost miraculous: It’s a meatless burger that looks, tastes and feels as delicious as its cholesterolpacked cousin. The quinoa patty didn’t fall apart like other veggie patties. Layers of sunflower sprouts, roasted peppers, grilled zucchini, grilled onions and creamy California goat cheese gave the burger contrasting yet complementary textures and flavors. This is an all-around winner.

Winner: Notorious.

Fries

Hopdoddy: String fries are made with Kennebec potatoes, a designer spud with low water content that makes it especially suitable for the fryer. Sprinkled with parsley, the fries ($2.75 small, $5 large) were crisp and fresh. A large serving is enough to share with two or three people, though you won’t want to if you order the green-chile queso dip. And you definitely should order the green-chile queso dip ($6.50, comes with fries). Notorious: Three kinds of sides make the menu here: regular fries (in several flavors), sweetpotato fries ($4) and onion rings ($4.50). I understand — and usually agree with — some chefs’ detestation of truffle oil. In many cases, the aromatic oil is overused, probably to justify an inflated price tag. This is not one of those cases. The truffle fries ($5.50) have just a hint of richness, accented by sharp Parmigiano-Reggiano and sea salt. Sweet-potato fries and onion rings were tasty, but it was the accompanying agave-nectar dip and spicy remoulade that made me grab another carb bomb even after I was full.

Winner: Draw.