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Packing 27 seats into a tiny wedge of a space, the former Bragg’s Factory Diner is brilliantly bedecked in frescoed trompe l’oeil and vibrant street graffiti, saturated with color, light and Latin rhythm. Votive candles light the tables. Whether ironic or earnest, they’re entirely apt. Spiritual forces are at work here, and while the results aren’t always pitch-perfect, this is a restaurant that’s exciting and engaging.
It’s also a notably more refined experience than Esparza’s previous work. Though ensconced in a joyously colorful space, Gran Reserva is a white tablecloth affair. A congenial and professional general manager oversees a small staff of crisply dressed servers, who can sometimes drift into stilted formality in their effort to convey a serious regard for the food. Though awkward at times, it’s understandable, perhaps, because the food deserves more serious regard than I suspect many will grant it.
Mexican beers, both predictable and unconventional, join a cocktail list of intense, syrupy concoctions based around tequila and smoky mezcal. Those seeking a less aggressive pairing may want to explore the wine list instead, a collection of The restaurant is i n the former Bragg’s Factory Diner space. Stars based on food, service, ambience 5 — Excellent 4 — Very good 3 — Good 2 — Fair 1 — Poor vintages from Baja California with which few (myself included) will be familiar.
Under the direction of newly promoted chef de cuisine Damian del Castillo, this is a kitchen that balances Esparza’s energy with a measure of cool control. Gran Reserva feels like two restaurants — one enjoyable, one exemplary.
A notable schism exists between the a la carte menu, which combines mostly well-executed versions of Barrio Cafe classics with some compelling new dishes, and the menu de degustación, a sixcourse chef’s tasting that’s both a revelation and one of the best deals in town.
A la carte menu
This menu is no slouch, even if it could be a little more consistent. Esparza’s Barrio guacamole ($11.75), for example, should be an easy layup, but underseasoned and served with chewy chips on one occasion, it needs to earn the gravity of its tableside presentation.
On the other hand, some starters are not as predictable as their descriptions might suggest. The ensalada del barrio ($13) looks like a boilerplate affair of spinach, toasted pecans and blue cheese, recognizable in any language. But its hohum appearance conceals a stealthy, sweet sting — a honey vinaigrette that packs the substantial wallop of cascabel chiles. And even those who tire of beet salads would do well to order the Leonor ($12), a blood-red plate of delicate, lemon-marinated beauties dotted with goat and pine nuts that breathes life back into the form.
It takes guts to serve posole verde ($10) like this. Literally. A beautifully balanced pork broth laced with chiles and the unmistakable scent of organ meats, I wish it didn’t take an act of bravery to put a soup this good on the menu, but I hope it endures. Few, however, will take issue with the quesadilla borracho ($17), an easygoing trio of plump, tender shrimp drunk on tequila and lounging on lightly crisped tortillas smothered with creamy cheese.
The screaming orange color of Esparza’s cochinita pibil ($22) outshines its flavor, but it’s a respectably prepared and gorcheese