Rubbing the toe and other good times in Edinburgh
EDINBURGH, Scotland - Rain is pelting the black bulk of Edinburgh Castle brooding over the city, but inside Fingers Piano Bar on Frederick Street, it’s warm and dry as I dance with a throng of cheerful Scots, all of us lustily belting out the chorus of “Sweet Caroline.”
“Hands, touching hands,” roar the dancers, waving their arms about and casually slapping complete strangers on the back as the piano man valiantly covers Neil Diamond.
Which is when it occurs to me that this city’s reputation as a bastion of gentility might not be 100 percent on point — certainly not at Fingers, which is known for a boisterous vibe.
In truth, Edinburgh has many faces. You might start your day researching the city’s (sometimes bloody) past, move on to a wind-swept hike of green hills and finish up with a plunge into the lively dining and bar-hopping scene.
Whether you choose one, two or all of Edinburgh’s incarnations, here are some guideposts for the journey.
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The Palace of Holyroodhouse, aka Holyrood Palace, is worth a visit for its stylishly decorated rooms as well as the chambers of the doomed Mary Queen of Scots, site of the brutal murder of her Italian secretary David Rizzio on the orders of her second husband, Lord Darnley. (Note the chambers are reachable by spiral staircase only.) Evening tours, which cost about $43, must be booked in advance and have limited availability. Regular tours are available daily; admission about $16. Check the website before you go to