Dining out, outdoor-style
Fill up on hearty fare and outdoor splendor this season
We live in Arizona for a reason, and no one needs to ask why this time of the year. Take advantage by finding a charming spot for outdoor dining.
In case you haven’t noticed, the weather is gorgeous out there. While I can’t say that all of this month’s featured restaurants will let you take full advantage of cooler temperatures, I figure two out of three ain’t bad. And one of them, in particular, is an unexpectedly charming spot for outdoor dining. For November’s fresh openings and under-the-radar eats around Phoenix, we have Cornish pasty in Mesa, Oaxacan fare in Laveen and a slick Italian import from California.
Sonsons Pasty Co. in Mesa
What constitutes a proper pasty? That’s an oft-debated subject, even within the borders of Cornwall, the English county from whence it originates. As stateside authorities go, however, you’ll have a tough time finding one more absolute than Julie Mercer.
She spent her first 32 years in Cornwall — 10 of them working at an honest-to-goodness pasty shop. So when a recent layoff had her considering her options, Mercer returned to her vocation of two decades hence, slinging traditional Cornish pasties from the Uptown Farmers Market in central Phoenix.
In September, Mercer went brick-and-mortar. And we’re all the better for it.
Sonsons — a nickname for her mother, Sonia — is a tidy little shop in Mesa with a short list of pasties and pastries, a handful of tables and a disarmingly friendly staff.
It starts, of course, with the basics. Steak ($7.50 small, $9.50 large), ground beef ($6.50 small, $8.50 large) or a punchy seasoned sausage ($6.50 small, $8.50 large) join potatoes, onions and rutabaga in a thick, crimped shortcrust shell with a bit of light seasoning and an egg wash to give it a glistening golden color when it bakes.
Mercer’s pasties are as straightforward as they come, warm and steaming with a little heft and a lot of comfort.
Mercer also makes a steak pasty with a touch of Cheddar cheese ($8 small, $10 large). And those who prefer to focus solely on the meat might enjoy her sausage roll ($3), a dense pastrywrapped log that saves no space for vegetables.
She’ll accommodate vegetarians as well, offering a pair of pasties made with chicken substitute. For dessert, she offers a small assortment of cakes and pies, as well as take-and-bake pasties for later.
Details: 6060 E. Brown Road, Mesa. 480845-8485, sonsonspastyco.com.
Rancho La Candelaria in Laveen
Rancho La Candelaria deserves more attention than your average streetside taco stand. And not just because it’s stinkin’ cute.
For the record, though, it’s really stinkin’ cute.
Poised in a grassy lot near Baseline Road and 35th Avenue in Laveen Village, the restaurant has been serving a mostly familiar mix of Mexican staples since June, but a few things make it unusually compelling.
The first is its home: A tidy and charming dining area beneath a brightly painted permanent canopy, complete with lights and ceiling fans. Parked on one side, a food truck serves as both kitchen and menu, with the offerings pinned up on the side.
The menu is comprised primarily of the usual tacos, burritos, enchiladas and tortas, but it also features Oaxacan tlayudas and Salvadoran pupusas.
The most compelling reason to visit, however, may be that there’s an unusual amount of care put into the food for an ad hoc operation.
Tacos ($2) are made with pre-fab tortillas, but the fillings have some verve. The carne asada boasts an intense blast of black pepper; carnitas have a nice lardy richness; and the lengua is tender and sweets. Standouts, however, include luscious cubes of rich, slick cabeza and chicharrones that have been stewed in a beautifully balanced, spicy sauce.
Pupusas ($2-$2.50) stuffed with beans or cheese are a solid rendition, served with a fresh, tart curtido. And birria de chivo ($10.99) makes for a spicy, meaty brew.
But don’t miss the tyaludas ($9.99-$13.75). This Oaxacan specialty is infrequently seen around town, and certainly not better than this. Its craggy, cracker-crisp crust sports a freshly charred undercarriage, and topped with a smear of beans, salsa, avocado, tomato, Oaxaca cheese and your choice of meat, it’s a strong rendition.
Details: Laveen Village, 3301 W. Baseline Road, Phoenix. 602-5506709.
Parma Italian Roots in Scottsdale
On the snazzier end of the spectrum, a popular young chef from San Diego has expanded his operation into north Scottsdale.
Parma Italian Roots, courtesy of chef Chris Gentile, opened in late September and is settling into a nice groove in the early going.
Casual but stylishly appointed, Parma sports a look commensurate with the neighborhood, from the patterned tile floors to the lengthy bar to a large outdoor patio perfect for this time of year.
Gentile is offering a largely familiar collection of contemporary Italian dishes — starters, pastas, pizzas and mains — boasting a little bit of creative complication without getting overly busy.
Arancini ($7) filled with peas and pancetta get a dusting of shaved caciocavallo and a puddle of arrabiatta sauce with bright lift and some serious spicy kick. Whole carrots ($9), tops and all, are nicely charred, splashed with an intense salsa verde and little dollops of fresh mascarpone.
A plate of bucatini ($17) is a garlic bomb, dressed with Bianco di Napoli tomatoes and fior di latte mozzarella. Toothy pappardelle ($25) get a big and busy Bolognese spiked with sau- sage. And agnolotti stuffed with sweet butternut squash ($21) are treated with brown butter, black currants and toasted almonds, a heady balance of nutty and sweet.
Simple pizzas ($11-$15) are built on a dough with lift. And tiramisu ($7) — set beside pistachio gelato — is a solid rendition with nice body.
Details: 20831 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale. 480-292-9900, parmaitalianaz.com.