Beyond London: Countryside reveals the real England
Special for The Republic
If you have only visited London, you have not truly been to England. While London is an amazing city, full of history and diversity, the real England is to be discovered in the villages and hamlets spread out across the beautiful countryside. No matter how often I return, I am enchanted all over again by the lush green hills, the fields dotted with sheep and the B-roads whose trees meet in the middle overhead to form a tunnel.
Last summer I introduced my daughter, Katie, and 13-year-old granddaughter, Reagan, to this amazing land. My dear friend of 28 years, Jackie Kingsley, who lives in Whitchurch-on-Thames in Oxfordshire, welcomed us with warm English hospitality, and drove us to Donnington Castle, Aldworth Church with its 1,000-year-old yew tree and Dorchester Cathedral. A car is essential to reach these historic landmarks.
COURTESY OF VICKI HUNT
Three weeks is never enough time in England, so we limited our visit to the South Country, visiting Winston Churchill’s World War II war rooms, as
well as Dover Castle and Battle Abbey, where the Battle of Hastings was fought. With earphones you can walk the battle grounds and experience the landscape these two armies fought in.
Cornwall, the southwesternmost county, with its tin mines, pirate outposts and castles, is wild country. Tintagel Castle, the legendary home of King Arthur, offers a challenge to climbers, but the views from the castle at the top are worth the climb. Beautiful hamlets like St. Ives, St. Just and Land’s End are not to be missed, though car travel makes them easier to reach than the buses we used. English pasties are available in every pub. These flavorful pies have a history dating back to the tin miners for whom they provided lunch.
St. Michael’s Mount in Mariazon is a castle in the ocean, built by ancient monks. It is reached by a brick causeway that is covered twice daily by tides. At those times the only way to reach the castle is by small boat. We took a boat out and walked back. Climbing the castle is no small feat, but worth the effort.
If planning a trip to England, leave London and head into the countryside. The people are kind and welcoming, the pub food delicious and the countryside is not to be forgotten.