Uncovering Bhutan, the Land of the Thunder Dragon
— Anonymous
It was a Grand Canyon moment.
When the 29,097-foot-high pinnacle of Everest, the tallest mountain in the world, poked through the clouds on my Drukair flight from Paro, Bhutan, to Kathmandu, Nepal, I felt the same tingling awe as the first time I peeked over the South Rim into the miledeep abyss. The morning sun in Nepal was perfect, casting a natural spotlight on a majestic panorama of Himalayan peaks surrounding Everest beneath a deep blue sky.
Our Bhutanese guide Rinchen Dorji deserved extra credit for this parting gift. He insisted we arrive extra early at the country’s only international airport to snag coveted window seats. For seven days, he had led us through this Switzerland-size kingdom the 780,000 residents call Druk Yul – the Land of the Thunder
Dragon – wedged between India and Tibet. Bhutan remained closed to outside visitors until 1974 when the king permitted 278 tourists to experience its bountiful natural environment, including 7,000 types of plants, 675 species of birds, 178 different animals (including elephants, tigers, and black bears), pristine rivers and forests covering 71 percent of the country, 50 percent of which is legally protected.
Most Bhutanese still farm in rural areas and practice Mahayana Buddhism. Ubiquitous, colorful prayer flags dot the mountainsides. Enormous and tiny Buddha statues and other religious items are packed into the palaces and fortresses built with distinctive dzong architecture that features high walls surrounding a labyrinth of courtyards, lavish temples, wall paintings, offices and rooms for monks.
The airport was completed in 1983, television and the internet arrived in 1999, and in 2005 a record 13,626 tourists visited at the same time paved roads were built.
The 2018 tourist cap was 60,000, not including visitors from India who pay no fees. The government collects $200$250 per person per night, depending on the season, and that includes lodging, meals, entrance fees, transportation and guides. All speak excellent English, which is mandatory to learn in schools and used in most signs and places. Trips must be booked in advance through registered operators, a requirement to obtain a visa.
“High value, low impact” remains Bhutan’s official appeal to visitors. At $200-$250 per day, it’s a bargain to see one of the few unspoiled countries left in the world.