The Arizona Republic

How to help restaurant­s survive pandemic

- Dominic Armato should

Restaurant­s are starting to close again. If you think that sounds bad, it’s worse than it sounds.

It’s a miracle so many have made it this far. A shift to takeout and delivery, massive layoffs, a wave of public goodwill and substantia­l (if disorganiz­ed) financial assistance helped most restaurant­s limp through the lockdown, however battered and bloodied. Unfortunat­ely, between the current surge of infections and the imminent expiration of federal programs, things are about to get even worse.

But while restaurant­s are franticall­y adapting, retooling and turning everything inside out to survive the pandemic, here’s some good news: If you want to help, you barely have to change a thing.

In fact, it’s essential that you don’t. I don’t mean to be glib. Between furloughs, layoffs and pay cuts, millions of Americans aren’t in a position to support restaurant­s as they normally would. But for many, helping restaurant­s through the pandemic is less a matter of ability and more a matter of awareness.

We’re not powerless in helping restaurant­s

It’s easy to feel powerless these days. But understand­ing why restaurant­s are in such dire straits quickly reveals that the power to save them rests in the hands of the dining public.

The problem is that most dine-in restaurant­s are economical­ly viable only so long as they’re reasonably full. But whatever your stance on the health implicatio­ns, there are practical obstacles to making that happen.

As the ranks of servers and cooks are decimated by illness, many Arizona restaurant­s can’t keep enough hands on deck. And even if restaurant­s manage staffing issues and Arizona doesn’t enter a second lockdown, diners won’t show up in the numbers necessary to sustain restaurant­s until they have the confidence they can do so safely. You could almost hear the collective industry shrug when Governor Ducey imposed a 50% cap on dining room occupancy, as bemused owners tried to figure out which restaurant­s were even halfway full to begin with.

That’s why you’re starting to see a lot of restaurant­s voluntaril­y close up shop or return to takeout only. The cost of staffing sparsely populated dining rooms, a runaway infection rate and abusive guests railing against safety measures are not a sustainabl­e formula for keeping tables open. And many if not most of the restaurant­s that survived the first round of closures won’t survive another, mandated or self-imposed.

Better management of the pandemic response could have — have — avoided this situation altogether. But while the burden of rescuing the restaurant industry shouldn’t fall on the average diner, the political climate dictates that it might.

Thankfully, the burden lighter than you think.

is probably

Want to help save your favorite restaurant­s?

Go to your favorite places just as you always have — the same ones, just as often. Order the same foods. Order a few drinks, tip generously and enjoy your

meal. Just enjoy it at home rather than sitting down in the dining room.

That’s the thing. That’s all it takes. It’s a bit of an oversimpli­fication, but if everybody maintained — and could maintain — their normal dining habits, most restaurant­s could ride out the pandemic indefinite­ly.

Operating takeout under these conditions involves some additional costs, but the bulk of the problem is simply that people aren’t ordering from restaurant­s as often, and when they do, they’re ordering less. According to data compiled by the National Restaurant Associatio­n, spending at eating and drinking places in May was down over 40% from the previous year, and that was a sharp over April’s numbers.

In other words, what’s crushing the restaurant industry isn’t some uncontroll­able external force.

It’s us.

This isn’t to place blame. Even among the financiall­y secure, a sharp drop in spending is both understand­able and expected. That’s why you hear calls to ignore the advice of medical experts and rush back into dining rooms. But this way of framing the options — stay at home or “reopen the economy” — is a false choice. Where restaurant­s are concerned, it’s perfectly within our power to do both.

Why it isn’t enough to order an entree

It isn’t enough to get an entrée and call it a day.

Would you have ordered a starter and a dessert if you dined in? Gotta keep doing so. Similarly, alcohol is a huge chunk of restaurant revenue, so either booze it up as you normally would or overtip to compensate. (Speaking of tipping, yes, you should have been tipping for takeout before, and it’s twice as important now.) Also, as you would if you were going out, take the time to drive and pick up your food whenever you can. Delivery apps take a huge cut off the top, leaving restaurant­s with razor thin — if any — margins on those orders.

For those asking why you should pay the same amount of money and not get the full dining room experience, here’s the answer: Because you’re a good person who can handle washing your own dishes for a while to ensure the people who have worked so hard to care for you are cared for themselves.

If you need a selfish reason, perhaps staving off economic collapse due to mass unemployme­nt in one the nation’s largest industries will do?

Whatever the motivation, if everybody did this, our restaurant­s would still be there on the other side and all restaurant employees — both back of house and front of house — could be paid normally. Unfortunat­ely, not all diners will do this, and with the terrifying spike in unemployme­nt, not everybody can.

That’s where step two comes in. Luckily for you, others are already doing the heavy lifting.

Want to go the extra mile? Here’s how

You don’t have to make a reservatio­n to carry out. So why not take that time to call your representa­tive instead?

There are organizati­ons working to rescue restaurant­s and their employees that need calls, letters and emails to legislator­s — as many as they can muster.

Groups like the Arizona Small Restaurant Coalition and the Independen­t Restaurant Coalition are working to stabilize the restaurant industry by advocating

 ??  ?? Niki Cohn picks up her to-go order of burgers from Welcome Diner in Phoenix on March 26. Along with food, the diner offers signature Hurricanes.
Niki Cohn picks up her to-go order of burgers from Welcome Diner in Phoenix on March 26. Along with food, the diner offers signature Hurricanes.
 ??  ?? The Vig Fillmore offers dine in services in Phoenix, Arizona on May 15. Tables were spaced apart by other tables marked with plants to maintain social distancing during the COVID-19 pandemic.
The Vig Fillmore offers dine in services in Phoenix, Arizona on May 15. Tables were spaced apart by other tables marked with plants to maintain social distancing during the COVID-19 pandemic.

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