The Arizona Republic

Try the funnel cake fries at Nurdburger in Gilbert

- Shaena Montanari

Six years ago, Taylor Harrison opened a restaurant in Globe that’s become a destinatio­n for Arizona burger lovers who like their food with a heaping side of video games, comic books and superheroe­s.

Harrison wanted to open a “tavernstyl­e coffee shop,” like something that would be found in the pages of “The Lord of the Rings.” But when he decided on a restaurant to buy in his hometown, it was set up as a burger joint so he ran with that.

He loves Star Wars, comic books and video games, so he used his passions as a theme for the restaurant. From there, Nurdberger was born.

“I just tried to take my room when I was growing up and turn it into a restaurant,” he said.

He had been interested in expanding to another location, and earlier this year he was able to find a 1,400-squarefoot location in a Gilbert shopping center that fit just what he wanted for the next Nurdberger.

“People say ‘ you’re crazy for doing it right now’ ... but I see it as an opportu

nity,” Harrison said about expanding Nurdberger during uncertain times.

He opened the Gilbert location in September with his brother, Broox Deatherage, a police officer in Anchorage, Alaska, who is planning to move to Arizona next year.

What’s on the menu at Nurdberger Gilbert?

Burgers, sandwiches, bowls and desserts make up the Gilbert location’s menu, which is a little smaller than the Globe menu.

There are quarter-pound hamburgers and cheeseburg­ers that can be served “classic style” with lettuce, tomato, onions and pickles, or “powernurd style,” which means with all that plus the addition of secret sauce, grilled onions and melted cheddar cheese. You can also order your burger as a meal with a side of shoestring or crinkle fries, or onion rings.

Some of the burgers on the menu are a bit more substantia­l, such as what the menu labels as the most popular choice, the “Raising Arizona.” This burger consists of a half-pound patty, pepper jack cheese, jalapeño bacon and green chile.

There’s also a Beyond Burger option, chicken sandwiches, Philly steaks and rice bowls for those not in the mood for a hamburger.

And of course dessert: There are Instagram-worthy funnel cake fries topped with whipped cream and Fruity Pebbles and creative milkshakes made with classic childhood cereals. For fall, Nurdberger’s dessert drink menu includes Harry Potter-inspired butter beer and pumpkin pie and caramel apple milkshakes.

Why you shouldn’t skip the funnel cake fries

Ordering pick-up at Nurdberger is no problem if you call ahead. There’s a sign inside reminding diners that the restaurant’s offerings are “not fast food” so orders may take 12 to 15 minutes to be ready. I called close to 1 p.m. on Saturday and the wait time was about 25 minutes. When I arrived, most of the order was ready; the servers finished the milkshake and put whipped cream on the funnel cake fries so they would be fresh to take out.

There’s no way to make a milkshake or whipped cream travel well in the Arizona heat, so if you order these dishes, they’re best enjoyed quickly. Harrison said he’s trying to figure out a way to package the funnel cake to travel better as to-go food. The burger and fries have a much higher chance to make it intact on a short drive.

I ordered a cheeseburg­er “powernurd style.” The extra onions and slightlysp­icy secret sauce are definitely recommende­d to add a little more complexity to a solidly tasty cheeseburg­er. And while the shoestring fries on the side were fine, I would probably order them with one of Nurdberger’s cajun or Greek seasoning add-ons next time.

But even though this is a burger place — and the burgers are good — the main event is really the over-the-top deserts.

Not only did the pumpkin pie milkshake look cute with orange, green and black sprinkles, it tasted just like a rich, creamy slice of pie.

But saving the best for last: don’t skip the funnel cake fries. Funnel cake fries are listed on the menu as such, but there are options for a variety of toppings when you arrive, such as whipped cream, chocolate and Fruity Pebbles cereal.

I went with the whipped cream and Fruity Pebbles because it resembled what I saw on the restaurant’s Instagram and did not regret the decision. The “fries” are funnel cake dough in a french-fry-shaped format and are crispy on the outside with a pillowy, chewy interior.

While these probably won’t travel well if you get them with whipped cream on top, it’s worth digging in in your car in the parking lot even before you try the burger. This dish is unique to Nurdberger, so remember this is not the place to skip dessert.

Sub

 ?? ANDY BLYE ?? Fried dough fries with whipped cream and Fruity Pebbles from Nurdberger in Gilbert.
ANDY BLYE Fried dough fries with whipped cream and Fruity Pebbles from Nurdberger in Gilbert.
 ?? ANDY BLYE ?? A cheeseburg­er meal, pumpkin pie milkshake and funnel cake fries with whipped cream and Fruity Pebbles from Nurdberger in Gilbert.
ANDY BLYE A cheeseburg­er meal, pumpkin pie milkshake and funnel cake fries with whipped cream and Fruity Pebbles from Nurdberger in Gilbert.

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