Restaurant reviews return this month; here’s why
A Korean steakhouse put up plastic barricades in between the tables so diners could safely grill short ribs and listen to K-Pop. A chef worked 12-hour days over an open fire while wearing a mask. A food critic — OK, me — spent a year eating ramen in her car and once photographed a box of steak tartare tostadas on top of an old dresser sitting in front of someone’s house. We all did what we could to make it work. ● That shot of the tartare turned into a beautiful picture, although not a perfect one. But who really cared about perfection? All of us, the restaurant industry included, have just been trying to stay afloat in the face of humanity’s ongoing disaster, the coronavirus pandemic.
For the past year and a half, The Arizona Republic’s dining team has covered the struggles and triumphs of the Arizona food scene by sharing workers’ stories, reporting on the numerous restaurants forced to close their doors and honoring the resilience of the food and drink community in the Valley.
As more Americans become fully vaccinated and the summer draws to a close, it feels like the right time to celebrate our restaurants for what they’ve achieved in the face of adversity and to talk about what restaurants mean in the context of this place and time. That’s why we’re bringing back the most indepth piece of restaurant coverage that a newspaper offers: the review.
Here’s what sets restaurant reviews apart
You probably noticed that I’ve been writing about restaurants since I stepped into the role of dining critic back in April. So you might be wondering what the difference is between those stories and reviews, which we’re relaunching in September.
I’ve spent the last several months getting reacquainted with the Valley’s restaurant scene after 15 years in Tucson, visiting restaurants new and old, pricey and cheap, writing my first impressions based on a single visit and sharing dishes so solid I’m confident recommending them to you.
The addition of reviews to my current dining coverage will allow us to go deeper.
More than just a recommendation, a review can tap into and drive conversations about how a particular restaurant adds to our food culture. It’s about how we dine, and how we can dine better in the future.
My goal is to write reviews that shine a light on the superb restaurants our city will come to be known for. I also want to dig into the connections between food and identity and address questions like: What is authenticity and does it even matter? Who has the right to cook a cuisine? And how do ingredients connect us to the environment here in Arizona?
Each review will offer a snapshot of Arizona dining at a particular moment, and examine how that moment connects us to our culinary past and future.
I believe all restaurants are important, whether they’re in Old Town Scottsdale or on an unassuming block off the I-17. Both my reviews and other restaurant coverage will reflect that.
Why restaurant reviews matter
Restaurant reviews have a long tradition in food writing dating back to the 1800s. While we might look at those early musings for a glimpse into the world’s epicurean past, I like to think of reviews not only as historical records, but also resources that shape our perceptions in real time.
Reviews have led me to some of our country’s most exciting neighborhoods. They’ve helped me plan magical first dates that later led to relationships. One time a restaurant review pointed me to a plate of perfectly grilled octopus, which was so divine I was compelled to plan a trip and travel to the northern coast of Spain for a taste of seafood straight from the waters where that cephalopod came from.
Right now, a new wave of food criticism is sweeping the country. Critics are redefining how we think about dining and the review itself. Soleil Ho of the San Francisco Chronicle is putting immigrant perspectives at the forefront and taking on issues like workplace harassment, which has plagued the restaurant industry since there were restaurants. Others are making a particular regional cuisine their beat, like José Ralat of Texas Monthly, whose writing is deepening our understanding of tacos and regional Mexican food.
As your dining critic, I will delve deep into what makes metro Phoenix’s cuisine distinctive. Our metro area is diverse, flavored by its Sonoran and indigenous roots, and the experiences of newcomers from around the country and the world. At its heart, the Valley’s food scene is approachable and exciting, thanks to seriously talented chefs, cooks, bakers and restaurant owners.
How I’m choosing restaurants to review
Restaurants don’t have to be new to be reviewed, though often they will be. My goal is to offer perspective on both longstanding establishments and the restaurants of the moment: to explore where they fit into the food story of the Valley, how they measure up and what they mean.
I’d like to share a few of the factors that I use to decide if a restaurant is review-worthy:
Does it tell a story about Arizona? I’m not talking about saguaros and howling coyotes here. I’ll leave that to the poets. I’m talking about what makes our dining scene unique.
Everyone’s talking about it (or should be). This one’s easy. If there’s serious buzz or a million people waiting with their phones in hand ready to post about it on Instagram, then I’ll be there to give you my frank and honest opinion. Whether it’s good or bad, or simply photogenic. Alternatively, if there is a restaurant so good, so important, so essential that I believe everyone should be talking about it, best believe I’m going to let you know.
Is it worth visiting? In 2019, The Arizona Republic re-envisioned the traditional star system used to rate restaurants. Rather than having a 0-5 scale based on “food, service and ambiance,” the criteria help answer the essential question, “How quickly should you go?” At the end of the day, a place might be interesting or important, but the question you’ll all want answered is: How’s the food? How’s the experience? Is this where I should eat tonight?
The rules of the review
In the age of Yelp, you can scan through some dimly lit photos and 20 people’s rants in your search for a place to go for dinner. I’m here to give you context and an expert’s opinion on where to visit and what dishes you absolutely need to try. But that starts with asking you to trust me, and for that reason, there are some ground rules to reviewing.
I am not an anonymous critic. Valley chefs will probably know who I am when they see me, and that keeps everything transparent and accountable. But I will not book tables in my name, announce my visits or accept special treatment of any kind.
The newspaper pays for all my meals. I do not accept anything for free, no discounts, no dishes sent out from the kitchen, no freebies. Ever. That means I’m not beholden to anyone except you, our readers.
I will always wait at least three months from the opening to review a new restaurant. I will also write about older restaurants that are important or really shine.
For each review, I will visit on three separate occasions to get a sense of the consistency and to allow for an “off night” or an unusually good one.
Restaurant reviews now and in the future
This job is an honor and a responsibility. It’s my chance to celebrate the town that raised me and provided the enlightening meals that made me the person I am today.
As the food critic for one of the country’s largest newspapers, I have the unique opportunity to tell stories that are both hunger-inducing and thoughtprovoking. I want my reviews to inspire conversations about how and where we dine, and to help point you toward some truly outstanding meals.
My goal is to eat my way across the Valley to discover unsung restaurants that are really worth your time. I’ve got my eye on the traditionally underserved West Valley, and on Gilbert, Chandler and Mesa, too. I intend to find approachable spots in Scottsdale and Paradise Valley, and exceptional bites in Tempe. I plan to eat it all. Because the range we enjoy — geographically, culturally and culinarily — is part of our strength. It’s one of the many things that makes our dining scene so special. And I’m here to shout it from the rooftops, one meal at a time.