It’s time to give port another try

Can I share a little secret with you? Hold your newspaper/tablet/laptop a little closer to your ear. Ready?

I’ve about had it with those wimpy, floral rosés, pinot grigios, vinho verdes and all those other wines of summer. Can’t we talk about a wine or two with a little backbone?

Sure, when the trees were budding six months ago, those light-bodied, crisp wines seemed like the perfect tonic for warmer days ahead. Now that I’m contemplating raking those leaves that are starting to hit the deck, let’s not wait any longer for wines full of ample girth and substance.

We could discuss spicy syrahs from the northern Rhône, bold Alexander Valley cabernet sauvignons or the wonderful 2009 Bordeauxs, but I want to go straight to the head of the class for the full-bodied wines of the autumnal equinox (10:49 a.m. Saturday). Let us consider the opulent, fortified wines of Oporto, Portugal, otherwise known as port.

Port and port-style wines made outside of Portugal are dessert wines. And while I’m mostly opposed to drinking sweet wines without food, I treat port a little differently. There’s nothing better with a good cigar than a glass or two of inky dark, ruby port.

The intensity of port (which boasts an alcohol level of about 20 percent) easily handles the robust flavors of the cigar without being too overwhelming like a brandy or a whiskey.