In port find comforting warmth

Port seems to put me into a contemplative state without putting me in a coma. It fills the imbiber with comforting warmth that fuels the mind’s eye — just the ticket for a writer whose imagination tank typically runs on fumes.

Many a wine drinker has a jaundiced view of port. They think it is too strong, too sweet or just plain “Yuck.” They’ve either had insipid cooking “port,” tried a bottle opened during the Hoover administration or had some other unfortunate encounter. If that’s you, I’m suggesting you give port another chance.

You can go one of two ways with port. Ruby ports can be recognized by their deep purple color and rich flavors of blackberry, plum, chocolate and coffee. Tawny ports get their name from their orangebrown color. Tawnies have flavors of brown sugar, golden raisins, dry apricots, toasted walnuts and nutmeg spiciness.

Wineries the world around make wines inspired by the winemakers that line Portugal’s Douro River, upstream from the cities of Oporto and Vila Nova de Gaia. And while standouts exist, it’s best to go to the source for true port.

You don’t have to break the bank to enjoy a glass of port. House-style rubies such as Graham’s Six Grapes, Fonseca Bin 27 or Dow’s Trademark can go for $20 or less. These producers, and many others, make fine 10-year tawnies that also can be had for less than $20.

One last thing, don’t forget to chill your ports. If you serve these wines at or around 72 degrees, you’ll get the full impact of the alcohol’s heat. Ruby ports can start the night at around 50 degrees, tawnies chillier yet. And know this: As the sun travels lower and lower across the sky for the next few months, a glass of port holds all the rays of sunshine you’ll need until springtime.