Shrimp in blanket of butter, spice

Before I ever tucked into a dish of potted shrimp, I’d always imagined it to be the kind of thing a British vicar might be offered when he stopped to call on a pair of elderly sisters for tea. Wholesome and nourishing, but not at all sexy.

My first taste, at a seafood restaurant in London, threw that idea on its head. The tiny pink shrimp were succulent and plump, bursting with brininess. Even better, they were coated in golden butter — not melted, but semifirm at room temperature — which turned velvety when plopped on the hot toast served alongside.

From my American perspective, it was a bit like a lobster roll, but with even more of a textural contrast between the crunchy brown toast and the tender shrimp.

Historically, shrimp, as well as other seafood and meats, were potted as a way to preserve them. The cooked shrimp were put into crocks or ramekins and covered in spiced, clarified butter, which sealed them from contact with air.

Back at home, I set out to recreate the dish, but with a few changes. The most necessary one was the shrimp itself. In Britain, potted shrimp is made from small brown shrimp, an intensely saline local delicacy that we can’t get here.

Sweet Maine shrimp would make an excellent substitute were it not for the fact that the fishing season was canceled this winter because of diminished stocks, resulting from rising ocean temperatures. I used wild shrimp from the Gulf of Mexico and cut them into pieces, which worked well. Use the best quality shrimp you can get.

Next, I increased the spices in the butter. Traditionally, a bit of mace, a hint of pepper and a trace of anchovy suffice. In my recipe, I use all three, along with cayenne, garlic and thyme. I also added a pinch of celery seed, inspired by lobster rolls.

With modern refrigeration, you no longer need to clarify butter, which removes its water content, to improve its preserving abilities. And so you may think you can skip that step here. You can, but you shouldn’t. With its smooth, satiny texture, the clarified butter cap is an elegant contrast to the soft shrimp below.

Potted shrimp is a very rich dish (think of it like a shrimp pâté); serve small portions as an appetizer either before a light meal, or with a big salad as your meal. Or tap into your inner vicar, and have it with tea.

ANDREW SCRIVANI/THE NEW YORK TIMES A British tradition, potted shrimp preserved in spiced butter is wonderfully rich and best served before light meal or with a large salad.