DINING RECAP

NINO’S

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Atlanta does not have an Italian section of town. It recently lost longtime cucina Alfredo’s. But, just down the street, there’s still Nino’s. Now nearly 50 years old, Nino’s is as old-school as it gets.

The Spaghetti al Peperoncino Eva, with plump, sautéed shrimp and artichokes, and a bite of controlled heat from red pepper, may be the best example of the simple, traditional Italian-American cuisine that Nino’s puts out. This is not a place where modern Italian, chef-driven creations are on display.

But, when you’ve got your recipes down, why change? Such is the case with a classic marinara sauce that makes a fine appearance atop chicken parmesan or as an accompaniment to lightly battered and fried calamari. Likewise, with a sturdy square of home-style lasagna or a bowl of spaghetti and golf-ball-sized meatballs.

Not all of the dishes wowed. A Caesar salad didn’t pack the anchovy punch I crave. Gnocchi was heavy and undercooked. The meat filling for a cannelloni special was nicely seasoned but dry.

So, let’s return to where Nino’s consistently shines: service. Even when the house is packed with regulars, plus families and friends of all ages celebrating a special occasion, your table is not forgotten. You will be taken care of. That’s as much a part of the tradition as that initial plate of bruschetta or the meal-ending dessert cart rolling your way.

MIA YAKEL Spaghetti al Peperoncino at Nino’s.