The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Puffy pancakes are simple and versatile
Dutch babies can be served sweet or savory.
As soon as the server elbows through the kitchen door and begins to wend her way through the pancake-house rush, you can’t take your eyes off what she is ferrying. It is an eggy crater the size of a dinner plate, with tender, fat-tire curves and a sweet aroma the Pied Piper only wishes he could deploy.
It’s called a Dutch baby on the menu, and the reason is far from apparent. No matter; it demands immediate, before-itdeflates eating, topped with a compote or a shower of confectioners’ sugar at least.
Who could make such a thing? You can, in short order. The batter ingredients are few and come together in a blender. Pour smooth, into a hot buttered pan, and the batter will shimmer and bubble in the oven until the moment of liftoff. Then, the pancake curls at the edges that rise above the rim, accompanied by an occasional mogul at the center.
It is an old recipe, and its history skews sweet. Pancakes in the Dutch Manner as presented in the 1998 cookbook “The Sensible Cook: Dutch Foodways in the Old and New World” resembled spiced (flat) crepes, while the topography gets much closer to Dutch baby territory in recipes for German puffed apple pancakes made hundreds of years ago. The origin of Dutch could be “Deutsch,” and the dish’s popularity in America is due in part to Sunset magazine articles dating back more than 50 years.
But the Dutch baby is versatile enough to step toward savory. In other words, have your way with it. Spice up the batter. Use the pancake as a vessel for fresh vegetables and greens. Melt thin rafts of cheese on it and cut it into snack wedges. Old World becomes modern.
There are but a few rules to keep in mind: The batter should be well blended; any added bits that have weight, such as diced pancetta or bell pepper pieces, may impede the rise, The pan and its fat must be h-o-t. The puffed Dutch baby needs to sit in the oven for a few minutes after the timer goes off, to improve the odds it will retain its structure longer.
It’s as easy as it is spectacular. It can be breakfast, dinner or dessert. Isn’t it time you rediscovered the magic or give it a go? ALSO INSIDE
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More delicious anytime recipes,
HARISSA DUTCH BABY WITH TOMATOES AND MOZZARELLA
Adding the spicy pepper paste to the eggy pancake batter gives it a cheerful color as well as a mild boost of flavor.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 large eggs (see NOTE)
1/2 cup flour
2 tablespoons harissa
1/2 cup regular or low-fat milk
Pinch kosher salt, plus more as needed
Pinch freshly ground black pepper, plus more as
needed
2 cups heirloom cherry and grape tomatoes, cut in half 4 ounces bocconcini (small mozzarella balls), drained Handful fresh basil or flat-leaf parsley leaves, torn Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
Place the butter in an 8-inch cast-iron or ovenproof skillet; transfer to the oven. Watch closely so the butter melts, but do not let it brown or burn.
Beat the eggs in a blender on medium-high speed for 5 seconds until frothy, then add the flour, harissa, milk, salt and pepper.
Blend on low speed to incorporate, then blend on medium-high for 5 seconds to form a smooth batter.
Remove the hot pan from the oven and swirl the melted butter so it coats the sides. Immediately pour in the batter; bake (middle rack) for 13 to 15 minutes, until puffed and golden brown at the edges, which should curve and rise above the rim.
Turn off the oven, and let sit for 5 minutes. This will help the pancake keep its structure.
Meanwhile, toss together the tomatoes, mozzarella balls and basil or parsley in a bowl; season lightly with salt and pepper.
As soon as you remove the Dutch baby from the oven, top with the tomato mixture; the cheese should start to melt just a little.
Use a thin spatula to dislodge the pancake; it should slide right out. Serve right away. Serves 2 to 3.
NOTE: To bring eggs to room temperature, place them (whole, in the shell) in a bowl of warm tap water for 5 minutes. Per serving (based on 3, using low-fat milk): 350 calories, 16 g protein, 24 g carbohydrates, 21 g fat, 11 g saturated fat, 175 mg cholesterol, 300 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 6 g sugar
From deputy Food editor/recipes editor Bonnie S. Benwick.