GRILLED OCTOPUS WITH OLIVES, CAPERS AND MARINATED RED ONIONS

I’ll never forget the recipe-testing day before Kyma launched when Stratos Lambos, then my sous chef, now a Charlotte, North Carolina, restaurateur, nervously gave me my first bite of this meze. As soon as he saw me smile, he wrapped me in a hug and said,“Now we can open a Greek restaurant, my brother!” Accolades followed: “It’s the reason why Atlantans eat octopus.”This recipe, with just the right balance of salt, sugar, and tang, is my No. 1 menu item.

FOR THE RED WINE VINAIGRETTE

1/2 cup canola oil

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup red wine vinegar Kosher salt and freshly ground white

pepper

FOR THE OCTOPUS SALAD

1 medium red onion, halved and thinly

sliced

Kosher salt and freshly ground white

pepper

4 tentacles from pickled red octopus in

a jar

8 kalamata olives

8 cracked green olives

Drained capers and chopped parsley, for garnish

In a blender, emulsify both oils with the vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Scrape the vinaigrette into a 1-cup jar with a lid and seal.

Shake well before using.

In a medium bowl, combine the onion with ¾ cup of the vinaigrette. Let stand at room temperature for at least 1 hour and preferably 24 hours. Season with salt and pepper.

Heat a grill or a grill pan. Grill the tentacles over high heat, turning and brushing them occasionally with the remaining ¼ cup of vinaigrette, until lightly charred all over, about 4 minutes.

Transfer to a carving board and let rest for 30 seconds. Slice crosswise 1/2 inch thick.

Spread half of the marinated onion on a platter or plates.

Arrange the octopus, olives, and remaining onion on top. Drizzle the vinaigrette remaining from the onions over the octopus, garnish with capers and parsley, and serve.

Note: The red onion needs to marinate for at least one hour, preferably 24 hours, so plan accordingly. The recipe for Red Wine Vinaigrette makes about 1 cup (250 ml) and can easily be multiplied to have extra on hand. Make ahead: The vinaigrette can be refrigerated for up to 5 days. The marinated onions can be refrigerated in the vinaigrette for up to two days; they’re best after 24 hours.

Wine pairing: Crisp Robola from Cephalonia or Roditis from the Peloponnese or northern Greece.

Serves 4

Per serving: 460 calories (percent of calories from fat, 86), 9 grams protein, 7 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 45 grams fat (4 grams saturated), 28 milligrams cholesterol, 461 milligrams sodium.