POACHED HALIBUT WITH TOMATO BROTH

This recipe owes a debt to my grandmother Athanasia’s baked fish plaki. But this rendition uses firm fish fillets poached in herbinfused olive oil, and the tomato broth, surprisingly, has roots in the classic Greek salad. Inspired by the deeply flavored juices that collect in the salad bowl from tossing batch after batch of tomatoes with onions and herbs during service, I employ a similar technique to make tomato broth.

FOR THE TOMATO BROTH

1/4 cup verjus or 1/2 cup white wine — see notes below 1 1/2 teaspoons tomato paste 1 1/2 pounds tomatoes, coarsely chopped 1 small Vidalia (sweet) onion, sliced 3/4 cup packed mint leaves, chopped 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

FOR THE POACHED HALIBUT

24 small cherry tomatoes, half red, half yellow, each scored with a small X in the stem end 12 small green seedless grapes, each scored with a small X in the stem end 3 cups canola oil 1 cup olive oil 2 garlic cloves, halved 4 thyme sprigs 1 large rosemary sprig Four 6-ounce skinless halibut fillets 1 cup Vidalia Onion Stew — see recipe below and make ahead Micro celery leaves or tender inner celery leaves, for garnish

In a large bowl, whisk the verjus with the tomato paste. Add the chopped tomatoes, onion, mint, and ½ cup (125 ml) of the olive oil and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours and up to 24 hours. Pass through a food mill into a

medium saucepan (see notes). Just before serving, warm the tomato broth over medium-low heat. Stir in the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. In a medium saucepan of boiling water, blanch the cherry tomatoes and grapes until the skin begins to peel, about 10 seconds; drain. Rinse in cold water and peel. In a large deep skillet, heat the canola oil with the olive oil, 1½ teaspoons of salt, the garlic, thyme, and rosemary to 145. Season the fish with salt and pepper, add to the skillet, and poach, turning halfway through, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of a fillet registers 120, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spatula, transfer the fish to a paper towel–lined plate to drain. In a small saucepan, warm the Vidalia Onion Stew over medium-low heat. Mound the stew into the center of wide serving bowls. Alternate the red cherry tomatoes, yellow cherry tomatoes, and grapes around the stew and garnish with celery leaves. Pour some of the tomato broth around the bowls, set the fish on

top, and serve. Pass the remaining tomato broth separately.

Notes: Peeling the cherry tomatoes and grapes is optional. The tomato broth needs at least 6 hours to steep and tastes better the next day, so plan accordingly. Verjus is the pressed juice of unripe grapes. Its mild acidity heightens the flavor of marinades, dressings, and sauces. You can substitute ½ cup of white wine that’s been simmered for 2 minutes and cooled. Instead of using a food mill, you can puree the tomato mixture in a food processor until smooth, then strain it through a medium sieve into the pan. At the restaurant, I’m particular about peeling the grapes and tomatoes, but it’s not absolutely necessary.

Wine pairing: Medium-bodied, fruity Malagousia with stone-fruit aromas or citrusy Vidiano from Crete. Serves 4

Per serving: 683 calories (percent of calories from fat, 65), 39 grams protein, 21 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams fiber, 50 grams fat (5 grams saturated), 54 milligrams cholesterol, 672 milligrams sodium.