DINING RECAP GU’S KITCHEN

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First-timers at Gu’s Kitchen on Buford Highway should consider trying at least one dumpling dish and one noodle dish.

Dan-dan noodles and cold Chengdu noodles both are exemplary versions of the classics: comforting to slurp, not aggressively spicy.

As for the dumplings, pork and chicken are very good, but I’m particularly fond of the veggie version, stuffed with Chinese napa cabbage and black mushroom; and the dried wonton style with pork — barely rolled in a little chile oil and soy, and copiously showered with chopped peanuts, scallions and chile flakes.

The spicy crispy fish — batter fried and sprinkled with just the right amount of spices and aromatics — is a real winner.

As for the Sichuan-style friedchicken po’boy, it comes on a hoagie that tastes a little doughy, but the gently spiced bird and the generously dressed coleslaw all come together to mask the so-so bread, making it a good, if not great, sammie. There’s also a tofu version.

I suspect these Asian-style po’boys were designed with kids in mind. The chefs even have created a Sichuan version of potato wedges to pair with their fun, tasty riff on the classic New Orleans sandwich.

Gu’s Kitchen. 4897 Buford Highway, Chamblee. 470-2992388, guskitchen.com.

CONTRIBUTED BY WENDELL BROCK