The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

More than loyalty, brands going for love

- By Janine Wolf

Gone are the days when the only goal of a company was to persuade you to buy its product. Now, making you feel kinship with a brand — even love — takes precedence.

At least, that’s what a group of influentia­l startups believe. Eyewear-maker Warby Parker, makeup seller Glossier, mattress retailer Casper — all of these companies are “direct-to-consumer” brands largely born on the internet. Sure, advertisin­g has been about identity since before there was a Marlboro man. But these “digital native” retailers, known for indulgent niche products at accessible prices, have given an entirely new meaning to the phrase “brand affinity.”

From luggage seller Away inviting customers to walk through a pretend airport security line to Seamless using its own data for a cute subway ad campaign (a Bronx neighborho­od was deemed least ideal for “mak- ing out” because residents order the most garlic bread), digital native brands have created a new algorithm. The traditiona­l buy-sell model doesn’t fly anymore, said Americus Reed, a marketing professor at the University of Pennsylvan­ia’s Wharton School. Younger generation­s weaned on the web demand a new kind of interactio­n — and much more attention.

This is forcing legacy com- panies to play catch-up on yet another front.

“Retailers in the physical space are going to have to provide something that is more experienti­al, that is going to draw people in to hang out and do stuff,” Reed said.

But they’ll have to move fast. Nearly 7,000 physical stores were shut down by the end of 2017, according to research and advisory firm FGRT. In the same period, e-commerce builder Shopify powered more than 600,000 online businesses, with 73 percent of purchasing traffic coming from mobile devices. The ability to instantly feed customer data back into a business model is perhaps the most critical change.

“While these disrupter companies are obviously much smaller, they are advantaged in their ability to obtain and to use that first-party data much, much more rapidly,” said Randall Rothenberg, CEO of the Inter- active Advertisin­g Bureau.

The growth of direct-toconsumer retailers is most apparent when it comes per- sonal products for men.

IAB notes that Gillette’s share of the U.S. men’s razors business, for exam- ple, dropped to 54 percent in 2016, from 70 percent in 2010, while the combined U.S. share of shaving upstarts Harry’s and Dollar Shave Club rose to 12.2 percent, from 7.2 percent, in 2015 alone. (Perhaps this explains Gillette’s audacious new ad campaign).

For men’s startup Hims, founder Andrew Dudum said making a sale (at least in the short run) ranks lower than building a long- term customer relationsh­ip. Like many of his peers, the 30-year-old said he’s trying to do more than just sell products, which in the case of Hims means generic versions of Viagra and skincare items for men. The San Francisco-based company hopes to create an “emo- tional trust” that will encour- age men to talk openly about health issues without feeling embarrasse­d.

“It’s so easy to build a brand — get it live and throw up Instagram ads — that I think building a serious d epth of tr u st with your consumers involves so much more than that,” said Dudum. “When they need something, we’re here to help them.”

It may sound a bit precious, but responsive­ness with a veneer of loyalty can make a startup stand out in a world where anyone with a phone can call themselves an entreprene­ur. A company’s brand — the feeling, image or story consumers immediatel­y recognize when they see it — is now everything.

With this shifting land- scape comes a new generation of branding firms.

Hims brought in Gin Lane, the creative brains behind Sweetgreen, SmileDirec­tClub and Harry’s. The Manhattan-based firm had to build a strategy that would overcome the male tendency to remain utilitaria­n when it comes to hygiene. The trick was to make men feel empowered when buying health products.

San Francisco-based Hims approached Gin Lane in June 2017 and launched the following November. The cen- tral question for the brand was, how do you stop men from buying plastic razors in a 20 pack or skulking down the hair care aisle for a pack- age of Rogaine? The answer, it turns out, was humor.

“We wanted to be that uncle that men could feel comfortabl­e asking the uncomforta­ble ques- tions,” said Dan Kenger, dig- ital creative director at Gin Lane. Over four months, the firm drafted every lit- tle detail of the brand’s persona. This even included how the “voice” of Hims would change, depending on whether its message was on Instagram or in a text.

Hims’ play on innuendo, from cheeky cactus visuals to eggplant emoji, became a way for the company to inject humor into the men’s health space. Emoji, what Gin Lane co-founder Emmett Shine calls the “universal lan- guage of millennial­s” and a useful tool to break the masculine ice, also became a big part of the marketing strategy.

The secret, he said, is to take the form of a friend, with ads that converse on an emotional level. “People are expecting their brands to be more intelligen­t, to know who they are, to speak to them as you would expect another human to speak to you,” Shine said.

Hims now has about 60 employees and, with a line of prescripti­on-based products and medical services in some states, a network of more than 124 licensed physicians. The company has raised $97 million from such investors as Institu- tional Venture Partners, Forerunner Ventures and Josh Kushner’s Thrive Capi- tal. The latest round valued the company at $500 million, according to data firm PitchBook. And since the brand’s launch 15 months ago, the numbers show that they might be on to something: Hims said it booked $1 million in sales during its first week, and that sales have climbed ever since.

“This is the playbook for the future,” Shine declared.

Los Angeles-based Figs, which exceeded $100 million in revenue last year, said it’s the first company to try branding the previously indistinct, $60 billion medical apparel industry. And it’s gone all in, incorporat­ing customers into every part of its image, an effort to create a “truly 360 brand experience” for its target audience, said Heather Hasson, co-CEO and co-founder. She’s enlisted medical profession­als and students as models, and its Instagram page boasts photos taken by people posing in their form-fitting scrubs.

Figs “talks to their customers on a regular basis, checks in with them on social media and gets quick, direct feedback, knowing exactly what health-care profession­als are looking for,” said Nabeela Khan Patail, a physician based in Manhattan. In November, the retailer even partnered with yoga-apparel retailer Lululemon Athletica to host 40 “awesome humans” — what it calls its core customers of doctors, nurses, dentists-at a weeklong yoga retreat in Malibu, California. Patail, 29, was one of the attendees.

“Experienci­ng the retreat made me realize the company truly cared about our well-being, and their support isn’t just tied to sales of their scrubs,” she said.

“Let’s open it like it’s a really nice pair of Jordan sneakers.”

The speed of consumer decision-making demands a robust digital presence, especially if you’re going to command the attention of millennial­s and Generation Z, who already expect friction-free shopping in the palm of their hands. For those executives out there in 20th century retail land struggling to adapt, Wharton Professor Americus Reed said they have only one person to blame.

“The brilliance of Jeff Bezos is, he taught you now to basically expect free shipping and to expect a very easy process online,” he said. “Press a button, and it shows up a day later.”

 ?? DANIEL ACKER / BLOOMBERG ?? Gillette’s share of the U.S. men’s razors business reportedly dropped to 54 percent in 2016, from 70 percent in 2010.
DANIEL ACKER / BLOOMBERG Gillette’s share of the U.S. men’s razors business reportedly dropped to 54 percent in 2016, from 70 percent in 2010.

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