The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
ASHLEY CHRISTENSEN’S HOMEGROWN TOMATO PIE
The much beloved, much decorated chef and founder of Poole’s Diner in Raleigh, North Carolina, must have had horseradish cheddar on the brain when she came up with this tomato pie, which calls for buttermilk cheddar and an egg-and-cream custard zipped up with horseradish and Dijon. I used a mixture of extra-sharp cheddar and Thomasville Tomme. Next time, I might skip the horseradish and add some Vidalia onion. But on the matter of crust, I agree with Christensen 100 percent.“I’ve made this recipe with store-bought frozen pie shells to great success,”she writes in her 2016 cookbook,“Poole’s: Recipes and Stories From a Modern Diner.”“When going that route, I use what is referred to as deep-dish 9-inch frozen shells.” Hear, hear.
2 pounds ripe but still firm tomatoes (beefsteak or
heirloom are great)
Sea salt
1 large egg
3/4 cups mayonnaise
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon prepared horseradish
2 tablespoons whole milk
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme (may use basil or
other herbs of choice)
1/2 pound extra-sharp cheddar (or, if you can find it,
buttermilk cheddar)
1 (9-inch) pie crust (deep-dish if you using storebought), pre-baked
Black pepper
Heat oven to 350 degrees (375 degrees if using a convection oven).
Slice the tomatoes into 1/4-inch-thick slices and place them in a single layer on a wire rack over a baking sheet. Season both sides with sea salt. Allow the tomatoes to sit for about 20 minutes. When ready to assemble the pie, gently pat both sides with paper towels.
(Note: Christensen calls for blanching tomatoes and plunging them in an ice bath before peeling and slicing. She then spins them in a salad spinner after salting. One person who tested this recipe tried and liked that method. My impression is you don’t want to do this with super-ripe tomatoes.)
Whisk egg in a mixing bowl. Whisk in mayo, vinegar, mustard, horseradish, milk, cream and thyme.
Layer a small amount of cheddar in the bottom of the pie crust; then make a layer of tomato slices. Sprinkle with black pepper.
Sprinkle on another layer of cheese, then drizzle enough of the custard over the top to drip through and cover all the ingredients. Repeat these steps, starting with the tomatoes and ending with the custard, until all the ingredients are gone.
Place pie on a baking sheet and transfer to oven. Bake for 30 minutes. Rotate tray and bake for another 30 minutes, or until the top is golden brown and firm all over. Transfer to a cooling rack for 1 hour before serving. If you can wait, the pie is even better reheated the next day. Serves 6.
Adapted from “Poole’s: Recipes and Stories From a Modern Diner” by Ashley Christensen (Ten Speed Press, $35).