The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
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Use fruits to make summer salads a main event.
When I’m bored with my cooking and need inspiration for summer meals, I love looking at what local chefs are preparing for takeout and delivery.
An offering of kale and peach salad with almonds, feta and herb vinaigrette from Jenn Robbins Nylander of Good Foods Kitchen caught my eye. Kale and peaches? I’d never have thought of it. With feta for the salt, almonds for crunch and an herb vinaigrette for savory, it would be a great change from the caprese salad that’s become a staple in my summer rotation.
I looked at the platter of peaches sitting on my counter and the two watermelons resting in the refrigerator. I could always make a traditional fruit salad, but I wanted more punch. It was time to reach out to a few more Atlanta chefs for ideas to turn my fruit into a savory dish.
From Recess executive chef Victoria Shore came a recipe for a green mango salad. She, like many of us, finds summer is the time to enjoy vegetable salads that are more than just greens. “The zing and chile kick of this Thai-inspired green mango salad really beats the heat. Underripe mango, or any stone fruits, for that matter, have a pleasant tartness that can be used in savory recipes where you would normally use lemon or lime juice, and provide great crunch.”
She turns the salad into a full meal by adding tofu tossed in a Sichuan black bean sauce. The result is crispy, salty and savory and pairs well with the noodlelike texture of the mango salad.
Watermelon, Blackberry and Grilled Peanut Salad is on the menu at King + Duke this summer. Chef Nate Boer says the inspiration for many of their dishes comes from personal memories. “We wanted to convey the nostalgic summertime images of enjoying freshly cut watermelons and eating berries right off the bush. We decided to simply highlight amazing local watermelon and blackberries with the classic regional flavor favorite of roasted peanuts.”
Boer’s fellow chef Amadeus Lixfeld offered advice for those thinking about ways to incorporate fruit into their meals. “Sweet fruits in traditionally savory applications can be challenging. One trick is considering the cooking medium to bring the two sides together. Open fire grilling is great in multiple ways. Grilling the fruit itself can temper the sweet-forward flavor of some fruits like peaches, strawberries and even melons. Grilling other meats and vegetables adds delicious charring and caramelized flavors that will contrast and balance the flavors of the sweeter fruits they are paired with.”
And culinary director Andy Long of Maven Restaurant Group provided Butcher + Brew’s recipe for the Tropical Bowl on their menu this summer and sent his suggestions for using fruit in a variety of savory dishes. “I like to use it in salads or as a simple pairing with protein. Sweet fruit like strawberries, crunchy fruit like apples and pears, or even pickled fruit, goes great with tangy goat cheese or salty feta. It can also help cut through peppery arugula to balance out a salad.”
And like many chefs, Long enjoys pickling summer fruit to preserve the fruit but bring another dimension to a dish. “You can pair pickled peaches with a grilled pork chop or roasted skin-on chicken to brighten up the richness of the dish.”