RAID THE GARDEN TO MAKE EASY RICE PILAF

I adore rice — be it fried in a wok, smothered with porkchop gravy or Indian curry, or dolloped in a bowl of red beans or spicy gumbo.

A pot of rice is a smart way to stretch leftovers, or use up excess produce that's accumulated from a farmers market splurge or Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) share.

Over time, I've made simple stews to eat over plain rice. (Okra and tomato, with tons of hot chiles and cilantro garnish, is my classic go-to.) My idea of a “grain bowl” is rather elementary: Top a few scoops of rice with fresh, pickled or sauteed veggies — plus a runny, soft-cooked egg. Then I reach for the hot sauce.

This summer, I found myself with beautiful sugar snaps, chanterelles, oyster mushrooms, and fresh Mexican tarragon with dainty yellow flowers. So I decided to save some steps and cook the veggies and herbs with the rice, rather than on the side. Voila! My Easy Summer Pilaf. As tomato season arrived, my rice turned red. Say what? When I make tomato sandwiches, inevitably there are tomato scraps I can't bear to toss. You guessed it: I chop ‘em up, toss ‘em in the pilaf, perhaps with okra, peppers, and thin slivers of kale, collards or cabbage. Cherry tomatoes, halved or whole, work wonderfully, too.

Got an extra ear of corn you don't know what to do with? Cut it off the cob, and toss those niblets in your pilaf! Right now, I'm on the prowl for field peas, because there's nothing lovelier than peas and rice.

To me, a veggie pilaf is a perfect summer lunch by itself. It can also be the heart of a veggie plate, perhaps with sliced tomatoes, summer squash, slaw or salad. Should you want a more substantial meal, there's nothing to stop you from adding bacon, ham, chicken or shrimp. For even more flavor, stir in the cooked protein after you've steamed the pilaf. (Full disclosure: I tested this recipe with tasso.)