The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Making Thanksgivi­ng safe but fun proves hard

- c.2020 The New York Times

When Linda Coats realized she would not be able to host her children and grandchild­ren for Thanksgivi­ng this year because of the pandemic, she and her husband considered volunteeri­ng at a soup kitchen and skipping the turkey dinner entirely. Instead, they decided to spend the holiday with their second family: their neighbors in Lexington Park, Maryland.

“We’re going to miss seeing the kids and grandkids so much that we decided we had to be with other people,” Coats, 59, said.

So Coats and her husband will smoke two turkeys, their neighbors will make various side dishes (and maybe a smoked ham), and the group of about 25 will turn up masked and with their own plates and utensils to a buffet set up on picnic tables

on their cul-de-sac. They will be able to chat briefly, then return to their own homes to enjoy the meal separately.

“We’ve all been kind of checking up on each other,” Coats said. “Thanksgivi­ng is going to be as good as it can get for 2020.”

With many Americans not wanting to travel, host people who have been traveling or have anyone except immediate family members in their homes, Thanksgivi­ng is even more of a puzzle than usual this year. Never mind how many pounds of turkey per person, or whether a green-bean casserole can (or should) be fancied up — this year it’s about whether to request coronaviru­s tests, how guests can help with food without setting foot in the host’s kitchen and, maybe most important, how to observe traditions while also observing health regulation­s.

Laura Douglas, 60, president of Bristol Community College in southeaste­rn Massachuse­tts, celebrated Thanksgivi­ng on Oct. 25, when it was still warm enough to eat outside. Her parents, both 86 years old, adore the holiday, and with most of the family on the front lines (a doctor and a dentist among them), the safest way to gather seemed to be outdoors on her sister’s deck.

Douglas’ sister, Holly Douglas Matty, set up three tables so everyone could sit by household, and cooked the turkey as well as the sausage stuffing. To avoid going in and out of her sister’s kitchen, Douglas skipped the usual family sides of mashed potatoes and green bean casserole and instead prepared foil packets of fingerling potatoes and Brussels sprouts with bacon on the grill. Douglas’ parents turned up with creamed onions in hand (a family staple for generation­s) and wearing Pilgrim hats, which cracked everyone up.

The family did manage its traditiona­l round robin of sharing what everyone is thankful for. “My mother always insists on it,” Douglas said. “We’re thankful to be healthy and able to work through the pandemic, when we know there are a lot of people that can’t.”

Other gatherings will occur indoors — and on Nov. 26 — with precaution­s.

Emily Gordon, 49, who works in media relations for the Yale School of Management, is joining a friend, writer Annie Murphy Paul, and Paul’s two sons for dinner at their house. Everyone invited has been asked to take a coronaviru­s test first. The plan had originally been to open the windows wide, but the weather is looking cold. Before this, Gordon and Paul had only been getting together outdoors.

Fran Keller, 52, an entomologi­st in Davis, California, will also get tested. She’s hosting the first Thanksgivi­ng she can remember — she usually goes to her eldest sister’s, also in Davis, but this year the crowd felt too large for comfort because several family members are highrisk. At Keller’s dinner will be her son (who lives with her), her daughter and her daughter’s family, though they will sit at separate tables because her daughter has asthma. (Keller is jokingly calling the second table “the COVID table” instead of the kids table.)

“I will hug my daughter, but only if it’s OK with her,” Keller said.

For many, instead of a celebratio­n with relatives, this year will be spent with a chosen family, whether that’s with a pod or with friends — and sometimes both. Podsgiving (or Friendsgiv­ing) still preserves the spirit of the holiday, with favorite dishes and the feeling of belonging.

Instead of going home to Templeton, Iowa (population: about 300), Chezney Schulz, 28, a hair colorist who lives in Manhattan, will host a Podsgiving on her apartment’s rooftop for a dozen friends she has been hanging out with during the pandemic. (Three of them are her roommates.)

The plan is to buy a cooked turkey — “my oven is too small to fit a turkey,” she said — and make stuffing and traditiona­l — for her — holiday salads. These include an Oreo salad made with the crushed cookies, Cool Whip and

The family did manage their traditiona­l round robin of sharing what everyone is thankful for. ‘My mother always insists on it,’ Laura Douglas said. ‘We’re thankful to be healthy and able to work through the pandemic, when we know there are a lot of people that can’t.’

instant vanilla pudding, and an apple Snickers salad (apples, Snickers bars, Cool Whip, caramel, vanilla pudding).

Matt Jennings, 44, of Charlotte, Vermont, is also hosting his pod instead of the usual 25 or so family members. Thanksgivi­ng is the “premier holiday” in Jennings’ family (“we’re not big gift givers,” he said), but everyone is in the Boston area in red zones.

“We thought about having everybody come up, but are we going to make everybody get tested? I don’t want to get into that,” said Jennings, vice president of culinary for Healthy Living Market & Café, a small chain of wholefoods stores.

Jennings, also a James Beard-nominated chef who says he “can’t not cook” on Thanksgivi­ng, will serve the dinner (including apple pie made using his father’s recipe) in his barn, so his 14 neighbors have room to spread out. Instead of laying out a buffet, he plans to set up food stations. The barn has an old oil heater, and guests will be reminded to wear thick sweaters.

“I’d rather be in the dining room with the fire going,” he said. “But we are blessed to be in a situation where we can still get a couple of families together in a beautiful place.”

 ?? MELANIE LAMBRICK/NEW YORK TIMES ?? Thanksgivi­ng is even more of a logistical puzzle. This year it’s about whether to request coronaviru­s tests and how to observe traditions while also observing health regulation­s.
MELANIE LAMBRICK/NEW YORK TIMES Thanksgivi­ng is even more of a logistical puzzle. This year it’s about whether to request coronaviru­s tests and how to observe traditions while also observing health regulation­s.

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