MARCELLA HAZAN’S TOMATO SAUCE III

The headnote for this slow-simmered recipe in Marcella Hazan’s “The Classic Italian Cookbook” says it all: “Pure sweet taste, at its most appealing.” She recommended pairing it with potato gnocchi as well as spaghetti, penne or ziti.

If you’re using fresh tomatoes for this rendition, you’ll need a food mill. Serve with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

Scant 2 pounds fresh, ripe Roma tomatoes (may substitute 28-ounce can peeled whole San Marzano tomatoes; see NOTE)

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter

1 medium onion, cut lengthwise in half

Salt

1 teaspoon sugar (optional)

Cut the fresh tomatoes in half lengthwise. Place them cut side down in a wide saucepan; cover and cook over medium-low heat for 10 minutes, until slightly softened.

Working in batches as needed, transfer the tomatoes to a hand-cranked food mill set over a mixing bowl. Puree until the solids are completely broken down, with tomato seeds and skins left in the mill. Discard the solids; pour the pureed tomatoes and juices back into the saucepan, then add the butter and onion halves, cut sides down. Cook over medium heat until the butter has melted, then season lightly with salt and add the sugar, if using.

Reduce the heat to medium-low; cook (uncovered) for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, to form a smooth, brightly colored sauce that has thickened a bit.

Taste, and season with salt, if desired. Discard the onion before serving or storing.

NOTE: If you use canned tomatoes, chop, squish or puree them. Then, add them and their juices to the saucepan and cook as directed with the other ingredients.

If you don’t have a food mill and want to use fresh tomatoes, peel and de-seed them first. Here’s how: Slice an X through the base and dunk them in boiling water for 30 seconds to 1 minute, or until they float to the surface. Lift them out with a slotted spoon and place them in a bowl of ice water. This will make them easy to peel. After peeling, slice the tomatoes in half and, using your fingers, scoop out and discard the seeds and gel. Tear the tomatoes into pieces and run them through a

food processor, in batches if necessary, to puree. Serves 6.

Nutrition per serving (⅓ cup): Calories: 160; Total Fat: 16 g; Saturated Fat: 10 g; Cholesterol: 40 mg; Sodium: 55 mg; Carbohydrates: 6 g; Dietary Fiber: 2 g; Sugars: 4 g; Protein: 1 g.

Adapted from Hazan’s “The Classic Italian Cookbook” (MacMillan London Ltd., 1987).

PHOTO BY REY LOPEZ FOR THE WASHINGTON POST Marcella Hazan’s Tomato Sauce III.