Updated stroganoff satisfies with taste

Streamlined version, with skirt steak, still delivers deliciousness.

Beef stroganoff is a Russian recipe consisting of sauteed strips of beef tenderloin bathed in a roux-thickened mustard sauce liberally laced with velvety sour cream. It is typically served with buttered egg noodles or crispy French-fried julienned potatoes. Creamy, indulgent and carb-heavy, the dish is the comfort food of continental cuisine. Our streamlined update is less expensive, leans plant-forward and still delivers deliciousness.

Skirt steak is prized for its meaty, intense flavor, allowing less to do more. Unlike traditional tenderloin, skirt steak is a relatively inexpensive cut that has become increasingly available as stores satisfy the demand for more affordable beef. It’s best when quickly cooked to medium-rare over high heat.

Visually, on the skirt steak you should be able to see lines of muscle fibers running in one direction. This is known as the grain. To maximize tenderness, slice the steak against the grain. If you cut with the grain, you will have long, stringy, tough strips of meat. By cutting against the grain, you effectively cut the fibers into shorter pieces, resulting in more tender strips. For best results, cut the long ribbonlike skirt steak into 3-inch pieces, then slice those into ¼-inch strips perpendicular to the muscle fibers.

Mushrooms and onions have become mainstays in stroganoff recipes. Meaty in texture and flavor, mushrooms blend seamlessly with the beef. Sweet chunks of onion give heft to our update.

Lastly, if you lighten things up by using a low-fat or fat-free sour cream or yogurt, add it to the mixture off the heat.