The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
TRAVELING HOSH THAT CAN BEAT THE HEAT
4 sandwiches to make for a deliciously hearty summertime repast.
Simple comfort food, favorite lunchtime fare, or the ultimate traveling nosh, the tale of the naming of the sandwich goes back to 1760s England. It seems John Montagu, the fourth Earl of Sandwich, was a serious gambling man, who asked his cook to create a sliced meat and bread handheld that was easy to devour at the gaming table.
Certainly, something like a sandwich has existed since ancient times. And now, nearly every culture and country has created both everyday and seasonal favorites.
In summer, when it’s time to hit the beach, hike up a mountain, or have a picnic in the park, sandwiches that can take the heat are packed into bags and baskets. What’s more, many of the best improve with a bit of time to marry textures and flavors.
Maybe the most perfect example, the hefty muffuletta originated among Sicilian farmers, with different fillings than what we think of today. Its fame in America began in early 1900s New Orleans, where Salvatore Lupo created his version at Central Grocery in the French Quarter.
You can still find it there, and everywhere, with an iconic blend of olive salad, cured Italian meats, and cheese. But the key ingredient is pillowy muffuletta bread, a wide, round loaf covered in sesame seeds. We found a pretty good version at E. 48th Street Market’s bakery in Dunwoody.
Pan bagnat (bathed bread) also uses an olive spread. But once you cross the border from Italy to France, the Provencal version is quite different. With a tapenade of herbs, garlic, anchovies and olives, it tastes of the sea and mountains of the south of France.
Sold everywhere from beach vendors and roadside stands to shops and farmers markets, it’s proved to last through the hottest days.
And whether it’s tucked into ciabatta or focaccia bread, it remains a sandwich for everyone.
Scandinavian open-faced sandwiches are ubiquitous, including quick and easy smoked salmon recipes from Ikea. Sadly, open isn’t ideal to pack up for an outing. But turning things inside out solves the problem, and makes for an even heartier summer repast.
Call it Swedish picnic loaf. A combo of homemade dill and scallion cream cheese spread, smoked salmon, thinly sliced cucumbers and radishes, stacked with thinly sliced pumpernickel bread, manages to be elemental and rather dainty at the same time.
We refer to our version of the vegetarian Vietnamese Banh Mi Chay as a beach baguette, because it makes a satisfying counterpoint to the seaside wind and water. It’s made with a spicy mash of tofu and chili crisp, classic pickled vegetables, and a topping of fresh herbs and chopped peanuts.
For even more flavor, nuoc cham fish sauce adds some saltysweet heat and tang. But for a vegan version, omit the sauce, or serve it on the side for dipping.