Rich Native American stew is link to land

“Why isn’t the original indigenous diet all the rage today?” Sean Sherman, the Oglala Lakota chef asks in the introduction to his book, “The Sioux Chef ’s Indigenous Kitchen,” written with Beth Dooley. “It’s hyperlocal, ultraseasonal, uberhealthy . . . . Mostly, it’s utterly delicious.” It’s the way of eating Native Americans thrived on for generations before Europeans arrived, and it’s guided by respect for the food, and connection with nature and community.

This rich, flavorful stew drives that point home. Like every recipe in the book, it is made with ingredients native to North America, which — yes, can be purchased in well-stocked grocery stores — but also can be found by stepping outside. Traditionally made with naturally lean, exceptionally eco-friendly game meat and a savory mix of dried and fresh mushrooms and onions, the stew is earthy and sumptuous, with deep flavor and notes of herbal brightness from sumac, juniper and oregano. The fork-tender meat, mushrooms and sauce served over bright orange mashed squash, makes for a beautiful and nourishing meal.

You can use any stew cut of game meat you have access to (if you are not a hunter yourself, it’s worth befriending — or marrying — one, like I did). But if you’re relying on the grocery store, your best options will likely be farmed bison, venison or lamb. And although you could forage for the mushrooms, onions, sumac and juniper berries, please only do so with a knowledgeable guide. (Most botanical gardens have foraging classes.)

When I made the dish, I bought all the ingredients at the store, yet it still opened my eyes to the wealth of nourishing foods this land provides. Such awareness is integral to this way of eating, says Dana Thompson, the senior director of health and wellness at NATIFS (North American Traditional Indigenous Food Systems). “It’s about understanding the world that is all around us, understanding the trees and the plants, and that no matter the season we can walk outside and gather healthful food.”

This stew is a delicious way to begin to foster that connection.