How to bake a better scone

Scones tend to get a bad rap in the U.S., and for good reason. Often, American scones mimic a fluffy Southern buttermilk biscuit, or they come out dry and lacking in flavor. That isn’t the goal of a scone.

Originating in the British Isles, the scone was historically a lightly sweetened, lightly leavened, farm-fresh pastry served with the afternoon tea. It was a light, yet dense, crumbly bite that, when paired with the tea, turned into the perfect combination. Families had their own cherished scone recipe, so there were lots of interesting variations, especially in terms of the dairy usage — some people had more butter to spare, while others had more clotted cream or buttermilk — and available inclusions like fruit or nuts.

To translate that tradition into a workable pastry, there are a few notes to help bring success. First, pay attention to the combination of fats; good butter, buttermilk and heavy cream are all important for this recipe. High-quality butter such as Plugra, Kerrygold or locally made Banner Butter produces crumbly layers. Buttermilk reacts with the leavening agents to give a good rise. And heavy cream helps bind it all together. The heavy cream can be replaced with clotted cream, which adds a lovely taste. Clotted cream is sold at Capella Cheese and the Grant Park Farmers Market, among other places.

Lastly, do not work the dough too much. Doing so will result in hockey puck scones, and nobody wants that. Mixing until just combined and gently patting them out while you’re shaping is the key to these light, yet dense, baked goods.

Sarah Dodge is an Atlanta-based bread baker, pastry chef and baking instructor. She is the owner of Bread is Good, which offers bread subscriptions to the general public and wholesale baked goods to local markets and restaurants.

CHOCOLATE STRAWBERRY BUTTERMILK SCONES

680 grams (5⅔ cups) all-purpose flour, plus more for

dusting surface

1 tablespoon baking powder

¾ teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

40 grams (3 tablespoons plus ½ teaspoon) sugar 227 grams (½ pound) cold butter

1½ cups chopped fresh strawberries

1 cup dark chocolate chips

1 cup whole fat buttermilk

½ cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon melted butter

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and sugar.

Using a pastry cutter, cut the cold butter into the dry mix until the butter pieces are the size of peas. (You can mix with paddle attachment on low for about 2 minutes and then chill in the refrigerator for 3 to 5 minutes, but it is best to cut the butter in by hand so you don’t heat the butter too much before adding your liquid.) Add the strawberries and chocolate chips, and stir to combine.

Combine the buttermilk and heavy cream into a liquid measuring cup. With the paddle attachment affixed, turn the mixer on low and slowly add the liquid to the dry mix. Mix until the batter starts forming the shape of a ball and clears the sides of the bowl. Do not overmix. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and cut into rounds using a biscuit cutter. Using your hands or a rolling pin, lightly pat the rounds to 1- to 1½-inch thickness.

Brush tops with the melted butter and bake for 18-20 minutes, rotating halfway through, until scones are golden brown and light to the touch when lifted.

Makes 12 scones.

Per scone: 534 calories (percentage of calories from fat, 47), 8 grams protein, 63 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams fiber, 28 grams total fat (17 grams saturated), 57 milligrams cholesterol, 517 milligrams sodium.