Is lip balm making my chapped lips worse?

Q: My lips are always dry, and I’m applying lip balm on repeat. Could this be exacerbating the problem?

A: Every winter it’s the same: The wind whips. Your lips crack. So you reach for lip balm and wonder — is it really helping?

Lip skin is thin, so it needs a little extra protection, said Dr. Heather Rogers, a dermatologist in Seattle. And lip balm is one of the best and most convenient products to add that layer of armor.

But some lip balms can actually exacerbate irritation and dryness, prompting the need for more, Rogers said. That’s why it’s important to know what to look for and what to avoid when applying certain products to your lips.

Why lips get dry

In addition to being thin, the skin on your lips lacks certain moisture-locking characteristics that other areas of skin have, such as hair follicles, oil glands and a thick layer of dead skin cells, Rogers said. That’s what makes lips “so soft and sensitive,” she added.

When our lips are exposed to environmental stressors like ultraviolet light, air pollutants, cold or hot temperatures and certain foods and drinks, they can become dry and irritated, said Dr. Sam Awan, a dermatologist in McKinney, Texas. Licking your lips, which you’re likely to do when they’re dry, can worsen the problem because the digestive enzymes in saliva can cause irritation.

That’s why chapped lips are so common, Awan said.

What to look for, and avoid, in a lip balm

The most effective lip balms contain ingredients that attract moisture (known as humectants), add moisture and oil (emollients) and form a protective barrier to seal in moisture (occlusives), Awan said.

Look for products that contain petroleum jelly (commonly listed as petrolatum or white petrolatum on labels), castor oil and glycerin, Rogers said. The American Academy of Dermatology also recommends lip balms that contain ceramides, hemp seed oil, dimethicone, mineral oil and shea butter. Coconut, avocado and extra-virgin olive oils help nourish chapped lips, too, said Dr. Danny C. Del Campo, a dermatologist in Chicago.

Use a lip product with an SPF 30 or higher if you plan to be outdoors, even in winter, Del Campo said.

Awan said people often enjoy the cooling, tingling sensation from ingredients like peppermint oil, camphor and menthol, but they can cause irritation so you should avoid them. The academy also suggests avoiding items with fragrance, flavorings (like mint, citrus and cinnamon), salicylic acid, eucalyptus and lanolin (a fat derived from sheep’s wool that the American Contact Dermatitis Society named the 2023 Allergen of the Year).

Other ways to prevent chapped lips

Along with using lip balm, staying hydrated can prevent chapped lips, Del Campo said. Drink plenty of water and use a humidifier when you’re sleeping during the winter, Awan said.

Though it can be a tough habit to break, Del Campo said, try not to lick your lips.

‘Race is a sociopolitical construct. I’ve always understood that to be Black in America was a political idea, and likewise to be white. I’ve played a range of things, but all my work comes from the perspective of my own experiences, and that doesn’t imply limitations — I feel the scope of what I am able to do as an actor is pretty wide.’ Jeffrey Wright, who was nominated for an Oscar for his role in “American Fiction.”

JOYCE LEE/THE NEW YORK TIMES Lip balm can be a helpful barrier between your lips and the cold wind, but not all products are created equal.