Omakase by Yun has casual vibe, stellar sushi

Chef Jonathan Yun has impressive pedigree, shows creative flair.

Firefly squid is a nigiri offering at Omakase by Yun.

Nestled in a strip mall in Dunwoody, Omakase by Yun already is differentiated from some of its peers simply by its location.

Unlike a cluster of other omakase restaurants (Mujo, Hayakawa and Omakase Table), it’s not in Atlanta’s west Midtown area, but its location isn’t the only reason Omakase by Yun stands out. The tiny sushi spot also is the most casual and least expensive of these restaurants, making it an excellent entry point for those looking to try out the niche dining format. The 16-course tasting menu at Omakase by Yun costs $185 per person.

This doesn’t mean you’ll get entry-level sushi. Chef Jonathan Yun has an impressive pedigree — including working for Daisuke Nakazawa of the Michelin-starred Sushi Nakazawa in New York City — and shows a creative flair, especially when it comes to the uncooked items on the menu. He brings in topnotch fish, uni and squid, and makes many other ingredients in-house.

The beverage program also is excellent, with solid cocktails and well-curated wine and sake pairings. And the restaurant does a nice job of walking the service tightrope between casual and luxurious.

The entire dining area of the restaurant is one room, dominated by the sushi bar. There’s also a separate bar for drinks and a small area with lounge-style seating. The setting feels hip, despite the surrounding office buildings, thanks to trendy modern art and an energetic soundtrack. Decadent supplementary courses have slightly risqué names, such as hand rolls called “special handies.”

The staff’s attention to detail helps justify the cost of the raw ingredients. On each of my visits,